Injected Motorsports : BlogBloghttps://injectedmotorsports.com/Thu, 28 Mar 2024 14:54:57 GMTurn:store:2:blog:post:34https://injectedmotorsports.com/2020-chevygmc-25003500-hd-leveling-kit-notes-install2020+ Chevy/GMC 2500/3500 HD Leveling Kit Notes & Install<p><span style="color: #000000;">So for the last few years the 2020+ trucks are becoming more and more popular &amp; more demand in leveling kits. We decided after getting asked mulitple times a week and seeing posts about them we have come here to break it all down. At the bottom we'll post links to recommended kits and a youtube video of a recent 2024 leveling kit install.</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">To start off the 20+ trucks have increased ride comfort over the old trucks so thats always a bonus. Not only that they sit higher from the factory than say the 01-19 trucks did. From the factory with no extra packages added the rear end typically sits about <strong>1-1/4" over</strong> the front. Older models that number was typically 2-3" so the rake was essentially reduced to minimal. Also Rancho shocks are standard which everyone knows how good those are (sarcasm detected)...&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">To simply break it down, a lot of people want to raise the truck while trying to maintain a decent ride comfort and a "leveled" look. This can be more easily obtained on the 20+ trucks ,but you truly get what you pay for in the kit itself and with the shocks.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Most leveling kits will give you between 1-3" of additional lift height on the front. While I do not recommend going much over 2", at the end of the day its your ride. Also do not forget about the IFS geomtry and how it can be effected in the long run.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">So in the end there different ways to achieve your goal but we'll post whats worked the best and maintained a comfortable ride while using quality parts.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;"><em><strong><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Important Notes:</span></strong></em></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Ideally rule of thumb is you want at least a thumb width of clearance between the upper control arm and the frame jounce. The more clearance here the better for ride geomtry and comfort.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Highly recommended to do upper control arms and the proper length of shocks. If the shocks are too short they will bottom out so if you want to go with a factory or a cheaper shock like bilstein they'll need the shock extensions.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Like mentioned above if you raise the front say 2" and beforehand the truck was 1" higher in the rear I suggest at least a 1"-1.5" rear block kit to level it out. If you go more towards 2.5-3" then i'd go with a 2" rear block kit. I always like to leave a slight rake especially if towing but it's your decision.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*If you're running say a Kryptonite or Cognito upper control arm kit and running factory wheels on a 35x12.50 wide tire then you'll need wheel spacers. 2" will clear and the studs won't have to be cut but the 1.5" or 1" would need to have the studs trimmed (factory).&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*What some forget about is if you lift it up 1.5"+ then you may want to consider a front differential drop kit to maintain a better geometry angle of the tie rods and other components. This kit will drop the diff down around 3/4"-1" helping lower the high angles caused by raising the torsion keys.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Never increase the torsion keys with the weight of the vehicle on the ground as that can cause damage to the bolt, letting them out isn't as big of deal but always prefer to do it with the weight off. 1 full turn of the bolt is typically <strong><em>1/4" of up/down movement</em></strong> of the height.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Always get an alignment done after messing with keys or steering components.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>*Tire/wheel fitment</strong></span>- This is where it gets a little tricky since theres hundreds of different combos to go through. You can run 37x 12.50 on aftermarket wheels w/ negative offset, but you either need a bumper spacer kit or an aftermarket bumper replacement to clear in the front and thats at a 2.5" raised front. Factory on 37's will clear on a stock 20" wheel.&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Cognito states "</span><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">Allows for up to a 35 x 12.5-inch tire on a 9-inch wide wheel with 5-Inch backspace"</span></p> <p><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">Again if you run 35" or larger tires especially with negative offsets you may need to trim or make minor modifications to the wheel well.&nbsp;</span></p> <div class="data item rows active-tab"> <div id="tab-label-additional" class="data item title" aria-labeledby="tab-label-additional-title"></div> </div> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;"><em><strong>Part Recommendations:</strong></em></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Upper Control Arms</span></strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Kryptonite- <strong><a style="color: #000000;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/kryptonite-upper-control-arm-kit-2020-gm-25003500-hd">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/kryptonite-upper-control-arm-kit-2020-gm-25003500-hd</a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Cognito- <strong><a style="color: #000000;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/cognito-ball-joint-sm-series-upper-control-arm-kit-for-20-24-silveradosierra-25003500-2wd4wd-2">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/cognito-ball-joint-sm-series-upper-control-arm-kit-for-20-24-silveradosierra-25003500-2wd4wd-2</a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Icon- <a href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/icon-20-up-gm-2500hd3500-0-2-stage-1-suspension-system-billet">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/icon-20-up-gm-2500hd3500-0-2-stage-1-suspension-system-billet</a></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Kibbetech-</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Differential Drop Kit&nbsp;</span></strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Suspensionmaxx- <strong><a style="color: #000000;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/suspensionmaxx-differential-drop-kit-2011-2024-gm-hd">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/suspensionmaxx-differential-drop-kit-2011-2024-gm-hd</a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;"><strong>Rear Block Kit</strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Suspensionmaxx- 2" - <strong><a style="color: #000000;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/heavy-duty-rear-block-and-u-bolt-kit-2-inch-for-11-24-silveradosierra-2500-3500-2wd4x4-with-3-inch-wide-leaf-springs-suspensionmaxx-2">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/heavy-duty-rear-block-and-u-bolt-kit-2-inch-for-11-24-silveradosierra-2500-3500-2wd4x4-with-3-inch-wide-leaf-springs-suspensionmaxx-2</a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Cognito-</span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;"><strong>Wheel Spacers (If needed)</strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Shifted Industries- <strong><a style="color: #000000;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/shifted-industries-8x180-hub-centric-spacer-2011-2021-gm-25003500-single-wheel">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/shifted-industries-8x180-hub-centric-spacer-2011-2021-gm-25003500-single-wheel</a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;"><strong>Shocks (Best to Good)</strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">ELKA-</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Kings-</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Icon 2.5v-&nbsp;</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Fox 2.5v Resi-</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Fox 2.0 Resi-</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Fox 2.0-</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Bilstein (may require extensions)</span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;"><strong>Leveling Keys</strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">Honestly keys are almost all the same and most come from the same supplier so whoever has them in stock its fine. brands we've ran are:</span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">-Kryptonite, Cognito, Suspensionmaxx, Maxtrac, Fabtech</span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;"><strong>Leveling Kit Links&nbsp;</strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Cognito w/ Elka - <a href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/cognito-3-inch-elite-leveling-kit-with-elka-25-reservoir-shocks-for-20-24-silveradosierra-2500-3500-2wd-4wd-trucks-2">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/cognito-3-inch-elite-leveling-kit-with-elka-25-reservoir-shocks-for-20-24-silveradosierra-2500-3500-2wd-4wd-trucks-2</a></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Kryptonite/ Injected Elka Options- <strong><a style="color: #000000;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/injected-motorsports-stage-4-leveling-kit-w-elka-25v-resi-shocks-20-23-gm-25003500-hd">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/injected-motorsports-stage-4-leveling-kit-w-elka-25v-resi-shocks-20-23-gm-25003500-hd</a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Kryptonite/ Injected Fox Options- <strong><a style="color: #000000;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/injected-motorsports-stage-4-leveling-kit-w-fox-shocks-20-21-gm-25003500-hd">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/injected-motorsports-stage-4-leveling-kit-w-fox-shocks-20-21-gm-25003500-hd</a></strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #000000;">*Kryptonite Stage3 fox - <strong><a style="color: #000000;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/kryptonite-stage-3-leveling-kit-w-fox-shocks-2020-gm-25003500-hd">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/kryptonite-stage-3-leveling-kit-w-fox-shocks-2020-gm-25003500-hd</a></strong></span></p> <p>*Cognito w/ Kings - <a href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/cognito-3-inch-elite-leveling-kit-with-king-25-reservoir-shocks-for-20-24-silveradosierra-25003500-2wd4wd-2">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/cognito-3-inch-elite-leveling-kit-with-king-25-reservoir-shocks-for-20-24-silveradosierra-25003500-2wd4wd-2</a></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GlSP_cWdGy0?si=opapBX2KFhTfClp_" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:32https://injectedmotorsports.com/dirty-dingo-ls-truck-high-power-steering-bracket-sanden-508-compressor-installDirty Dingo LS Truck High Power Steering Bracket & Sanden 508 Compressor install<p>All threaded holes in the block and cylinder head should cleaned and tapped with a thread chaser. All bolts being installed should be lubed with a light oil or anti-seize on the bolt threads before assembly.</p> <p>This bracket is designed to be used with 1990-95 Chevrolet 1/2 ton truck 350 power steering pump. If you have an LS truck power steering pump P-series, all you need is the different reservoir. When looking at getting a new-to-you reservoir, pay attention to the return line and make sure they come with new seals.&nbsp;</p> <p><a href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/ls-sanden-508-ac-compressor"><span style="color: #e03e2d; font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'arial black', sans-serif;"><strong>LS Sanden 508 A/C Compressor Install Notes</strong></span></a></p> <p><u>Recommended Pump w/ Reservoir Included:</u></p> <p>GM OEM 19153678, 26015764, 26015767, 26020019, 26020020, 26025302, 26037445</p> <p>CARDONE 967828</p> <p><u>Recommended Reservoirs:</u></p> <p>OER Authorized Power Steering Reservoirs 7826736 (Black)</p> <div>Classic Performance Power Steering Reservoirs 19-7074BSB (Black)</div> <div> <div><br /><u>Recommended Pulley:</u><br />ACDELCO 12605677</div> <div>Cardone 3P25160</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div><u><span style="font-family: verdana, geneva, sans-serif;">New Seal Kit:</span></u></div> <div>Gates 351160, OER 1253570, GM Genuine 15825938&nbsp;</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> </div> <p>Disconnect the battery. Remove the serpentine belt. Using a power stering pulley puller tool, remove the power steering pulley. Remove the wires at the alternator and the two bolts holding the alternator and place alternator to the side. Remove the idler pulley. Remove the three bolts holding the power steering pump to the bracket. Remove the bolts holding the factory bracket to the head and block and remove the factory bracket. When installing new brackets finger tighten all bolts and torque after everything is installed.&nbsp;</p> <p><br /><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-ALTPS_2_INS1.jpg" width="547" height="410" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-ALTPS_2_INS2.jpg" width="588" height="441" /></p> <p>Place power steering pump on a flat surface. Place the two spacers "B" and the one spacer "C" on the pump as shown. Place the bracket of the top of the pump and install the bolts using a stainless washer under the head of the bolts. The "B" spacers use 40 MM bolts and the "C" spacer uses a 30 MM bolt.</p> <p><br /><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-ALTPS_2_INS3.jpg" width="679" height="509" /></p> <p>Next install the assembly to the engine using two 130 MM bolts. The top space to the head is "E" and the bottom spacer to the block is "F". Finger tighten the bolts.</p> <p><br />&nbsp;<img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-ALTPS_2_INS4.jpg" width="608" height="456" /></p> <p>Install the rear bracket using two 130 MM bolts with stainless washers. Slide bolt through front plate. Place spacers "D" between the plates and spacer "A" between the back plate and the head. Install the alternator between the two billet brackets using two 90MM bolts, two lock nuts, and stainless washers on both sides. While lifting the weight of the assembly, torque all bolts to 28 ft lbs.</p> <p><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-ALTPS_INS9.jpg" width="533" height="400" />&nbsp;<img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-ALTPS_2_INS5.jpg" width="418" height="313" /></p> <p>Install lower pulley kit. Stack up the spacers as shown and torque to 28 ft lbs. Install power steering pulley using the proper install tool. Install wires to alternator.</p> <p><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-ALTPS_2_INS8.jpg" width="552" height="412" /></p> <p>Install new serpentine belt as shown. Reconnect battery.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>If you are installing a combo kit with AC- use the AC install instructions for correct belt size.</p> <p><u><a href="https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/pages.php?pID=44&amp;CDpath=3">Sanden 508 compressor</a></u></p> <p><u><a href="https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/pages.php?pID=14&amp;CDpath=3">GM R4 compressor</a></u></p> <p><strong>Belts without high mount AC-</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Stock Truck accessories-&nbsp;</p> <p>Small case alternator Gates Belt K060798</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates Belt K060802</p> <p>* When using small diameter power steering pulley subtract 2" from belt length.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Small case alternators are 135 amp and lower. Large Case alternators are 140 amp and higher.</p> <p>Large case is on the left-</p> <p><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/alt2.jpg" /><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/alt3.jpg" /></p> <p><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/Large-small.jpg" alt="" width="463" height="276" /></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:33https://injectedmotorsports.com/ls-sanden-508-ac-compressorDirty Dingo LS Sanden 508 A/C Compressor Install Notes<p>All threaded holes in the block and cylinder head should cleaned and tapped with a thread chaser. All bolts being installed should be lubed with a light oil or anti-seize on the bolt threads before assembly.</p> <p>*We recommend leaving all of the bolts slightly loose until all the parts are installed.&nbsp;Then go back and torque each bolt to 28 ft. lbs.&nbsp;Install the smaller rear bracket using 2 "A" spacers between the bracket and passenger cylinder head using two counter sunk bolts as shown.&nbsp;Leave these bolts loose, do not tighten yet.&nbsp;On some VVT and corvette engines, the water pump must be removed to install the lower bolt.</p> <p>Corvette accessories&nbsp;do not use an "A" spacer. The rear bracket bolts directly to the head.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-AC-INST-1.jpg" width="406" height="307" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-AC-INSTALL-2.JPG" width="347" height="260" /></p> <p>Using the longest bolt and a stainless washer, install the larger front bracket using 1 "B" spacer between the two brackets and 1 "A" spacer between the rear bracket and the cylinder head.<br /><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-AC-INSTALL-4.JPG" width="300" height="273" /></p> <p>Install the remaining two "B" spacers between the front and back bracket using the two countersunk bolts through the front plate and thread into the rear plate.</p> <p><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-AC-INSTALL-5.JPG" width="321" height="287" /></p> <p>Now install the Sanden compressor between the two brackets.&nbsp;The compressor should be installed against the front bracket and spacers "D" between the backside of the rear bracket and the compressor,&nbsp;and spacers "C" will be placed between the rear of the front bracket and in front of the front compressor ear.&nbsp;Use stainless washers on both sides.</p> <p><br /><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-AC-INST-6-SD.JPG" width="305" height="273" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/install/SANDEN-508-INST-5.jpg" width="341" height="227" /></p> <p>VVT is different. It only uses the "C" spacers between the backside of the front bracket and the front compressor ears. On VVT the belt runs on the front most rib of the compressor.</p> <p><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/install/SANDEN-VVT.jpg" alt="" width="427" height="241" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>While lifting the weight of the compressor, tighten&nbsp;the counter sunk bolts first, rear bracket to cylinder head, then the front bracket, and finally the compressor to 28 ft. lbs.&nbsp;Next install the upper pulley with an aluminum spacer between the machined pulley stand and the front bracket. &nbsp;The additional stainless washer and nut go on the backside of the pulley bolt to secure this bolt from coming loose.</p> <p>TENSIONER INSTALLATION-</p> <p>Place the flat aluminum spacer plate that comes with the tensioner between the tensioner and the front plate as shown.&nbsp;Tighten tensioner bolt to 28 ft. lbs.</p> <p><img style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-AC-INSTALL-10.jpg" width="428" height="327" />&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-AC-INST-11-SD.JPG" width="516" height="395" /></p> <p><img src="http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/DD-LS-SANDEN-AC-2.JPG" width="435" height="326" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>To install the belt place a 3/8 ratchet and extension into the front of the tensioner and twist down. Wrap the belt around all of the pulleys and when installing you slip the belt under the water pump pulley.</p> <p>Correct belt tensioning can be determined by the distance between the tensioner and idler pulleys. When using small diameter pulleys and test fitting belts, you want as close to 2" between the two pulleys as possible.&nbsp;If ithis distance is less than 2" the belt will be to loose.</p> <div>&nbsp;</div> <p><img src="https://www.dirtydingo.com/images/content/Sanden%20Tensioner.jpg" alt="" width="384" height="345" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><u><a href="https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1833">Replacement tensioner click here</a></u></p> <p><br />Stock Truck Accessory Belt Routing-</p> <p><img src="https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/images/install/truckacc.jpg" width="467" height="210" /></p> <p><strong>BELT SIZES-</strong></p> <p>Stock truck accessories-</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates K061120</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K061123</p> <p>Truck accessories using Dirty Dingo billet Alt/PS high mount bracket- DD-LS-ALT-PS-2</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates&nbsp;K061000</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates&nbsp;K061005</p> <p>Truck accessories using Dirty Dingo billet Alt/PS low mount bracket- DD-LS-ALT-PS</p> <p>Small case alternator Gates K060975</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K060984</p> <p>Truck accessories using Dirty Dingo idler relocation bracket-</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates K061177</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K061187</p> <p>Truck accessories using Dirty Dingo idler relocation bracket non/power steering</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates K060895</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K060905</p> <p>Factory Corvette or Dirty Dingo Corvette style &nbsp;LS1 Alt/Ps bracket- DD-LS1-ALT-PS</p> <p>Small case alternator Gates K061000</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K061010</p> <p>Dirty Dingo Corvette, Camaro, Truck, VVT Narrow Alternator Only-</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates K060905</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K060910</p> <p>Dirty Dingo Corvette, Camaro, Truck, VVT Wide Alternator Only-</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates K060908</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K060915</p> <p>DD-LS-SR-ALT&nbsp; LS Alternator Only Street Rod High Mount</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates K060845</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K060854</p> <p>DD-LS-SR-ALT-PS-2 - LS Alternator Type 2 Power Steering Street Rod High Mount</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates K060950</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K060956</p> <p>DD-LS-SR-ALT-PS-1 - LS Alternator Type 1 Power Steering Street Rod High Mount</p> <p>Small case alternator&nbsp;Gates K060997</p> <p>Large case alternator Gates K061005</p> <p>Stock 1998-02 Camaro / Dirty Dingo LS1 Camaro accessories-</p> <p>Gates K060988</p> <p>2003-2006 GTO stock accessories-</p> <p>Gates K060975</p> <p>Dirty Dingo LS1 Camaro close fit power steering accessories-</p> <p>Gates K061015</p> <p>With Small diameter power steering pulley</p> <p>Gates K060962</p> <p>Stock 2010-2015 Camaro accessories-</p> <p>Gates K061031</p> <p>Stock 2010-2015 Camaro power steering with Dirty Dingo 98-02 Camaro low mount small case alternator</p> <p>Gates K061000</p> <p>* When using large case Truck alternator add 3/4" to belt length.</p> <p>* When using small diameter power steering pulley subtract 2" from belt length.</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:30https://injectedmotorsports.com/amp-research-powerstep-install-2022-ford-f-150Amp Research Powerstep install: 2022 Ford F-150<p>We had a new 2022 Ford F-150 lariat supercrew EcoBoost roll into the shop wanting some goodies. We through on these amp research power steps as they offer a strong clean look with exceptional durability. *These steps will not yet work on the Powerboost style trim*. Works for 2021-22 Ford F-150 super crew &amp; Supercab models.</p> <p>They are backed by a 5-year/60,000-mile warranty. But with anything don't forget to perform maintenance on them. This install can be done at home with hand tools, and the average time is 2-4 hours, this style does take a little longer due to tapping 2 additional wires under the dash. We hope this video helps out with your next DIY install!</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><strong>Common tools/ sizes:</strong></h2> <ul> <li>Sockets: 10mm, 13mm</li> <li>5/32 Allen wrench</li> <li>Torch/ cutters/tape Drill</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><strong>Install:&nbsp;</strong></h2> <p><strong>Step# 1</strong> Assemble the motors onto the linkage and tighten down the 5/32 Allen head bolts (make sure the linkage is around halfway down)</p> <p><strong>Step# 2 </strong>Route the wire loom down each side of the engine bay with the longer side going to the driver side (which has the 2 purple wires with it also), take out the fuse, insert the 2 plugs into the controller &amp; connect the positive/ ground to the battery or you can also connect the ground to the 10mm nut on the inside of the passenger side bay. We drilled small holes in the plastic shroud to zip tie and loom out of the way.&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step# 3</strong> On the driver's side you'll see a rubber plug in the floor so pop it out and feed the two purple wires into the cab. You will take the 2 trim pieces off to access the hole under the carpet, and connect the 2 purple wires using the grey posi taps into the ob2 connector wires (purple and purple with black stripe). After doing this find the black module by the E brake and you can either press the tab and pull it out or simply unplug the black connector (shown in the video). Find the white w/ green stripe wire and using the red posi tap, you tap the wire and connect the ob2 blue harness wire on the other end, repeat it on the green w/ blue stripe wire going to the white ob2 wire (they will be right next to each other on the plug). After that's all working, tape it and zip tie excess up and place the panels back in</p> <p><strong>Step# 4 </strong>Remove the (6) 13mm nuts on each side and remove the factory steps if you have them, next install the motor linkage (fronts) and other linkages on the rear, 1st and last set of studs with new 13mm hardware. The front lower right nut will need to be tightened by hand with a 13mm open socket wrench.&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step# 5</strong> Once the linkages are secure grab the steps and place the sliders on each linkage lining them up so you can get your Allen head bolts into the steps. You'll want around 11" from the rear end linkage to the end of steps, but you can adjust as needed.&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step# 6</strong> After the steps are installed and tight, then run your wire loom down each side zip tying the loom out of the way, plugging in the connectors to the motors, and prepping the light wiring for installation.</p> <p><strong>Step# 7 </strong>You can choose to drill the hole in the pinch weld, or you can bend it under the weld whichever you feel more comfortable with. A 19/64" hole or close to it will be enough to insert the rubber grommets inside. Once that's done slide the LED light loom through the hole and connect them using the butt connectors to the wire loom wires. (Make sure you clean the surface underneath before sticking the led lights to the rocker panel). Approx 24" and 66" from the front for placement.&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step# 8 </strong>Once this is finished, make sure the wire loom is in a good spot and secured with zip ties, and double-check all nuts/bolts. Then go back under the hood and replace the fuse. Make sure the steps work on both sides up/down, and all 4 led lights work as well. After the check is done and everything is working properly you're all set!&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Below is a video of the process as well as a link to our site for the product. Thank you!</p> <p><a href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/amp-research-powerstep-running-boards-plug-n-play-system-2021-2022-ford-f-150">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/amp-research-powerstep-running-boards-plug-n-play-system-2021-2022-ford-f-150</a></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-5bS5CPrXzk" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:29https://injectedmotorsports.com/duramax-p0087-fuel-pressure-codeDuramax P0087 Fuel Pressure Code<p>So we see this in the shop weekly and also online all the time. Driving down the road or starting the truck up and pops with a <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>P0087 code</strong></span>. We'll walk you through a quick tutorial on what it means, its likely causes, and fixes for that issue.</p> <p>The <strong>P0087</strong> code is a fuel pressure code signaling the pressure is below spec. The sensor is located on the fuel rail, and this is what triggers the code to be thrown.&nbsp;</p> <p>Sometimes the vehicle may experience symptoms and sometimes it won't. You can also view the fuel pressures if you have a monitor device, scan tool, etc. Most likely you'll see the two pressures being far off from each other or one coming down faster etc. If you experience symptoms, it may be laggy, misfires, or could even lunge so to speak.</p> <p>Now there are several outcomes to what might be causing the actual problem to occur so we'll go through them but just remember sometimes it can be more than one also.</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/EBBCF464-65D0-489B-AD8B-1300B9FC21ED.png" alt="" width="473" height="473" /></p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Possible Causes:</span></h2> <p><strong>#1</strong> - Air introduced into the system (a lot of the time the factory filter head or the filter itself will be leaking or might be clogged up)- this can cause the low-pressure code to pop up.</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #e03e2d;">Fix </span>- Change the filter and or check the filter head for any leaks or cracks (very common).</li> </ul> <p>Permanent Fix: Buy a lift pump, remove the factory filter/head with a bypass hose and go on about your way. The lift pump is a flow-through design so it will still filter the fuel even if it stops working.<br /><br /></p> <p><strong>#2</strong> - Collapsed fuel line/ leaking fuel line somewhere in the system. This one is less likely, but you literally have to check the lines on the rails, the cp3 pump, and all the way back to the fuel tank. (check the sending unit/ tank as well).</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #e03e2d;">Fix </span>- Repair/ Replace fuel line.&nbsp;<br /><br /></li> </ul> <p><strong>#3</strong> - Faulty Fuel Pressure Sensor: Again not as likely but it is something that is faulty and therefore gives a false reading to the vehicle's computer.&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #e03e2d;">Fix</span> - Replace with a GM FPS. Even the shimming kit for the sensor isn't a bad idea and might be something to do especially on modded applications. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND INSTALLING A FUEL RAIL PLUG! (This does not solve the problem and it can actually cause the rail to crack if too much pressure occurs inside the rail and can't blow off).<br /><br /></li> </ul> <p><strong>#4</strong> - Weak CP3 / CP4 pump: This can occur and is more likely, especially in older/ higher mileage trucks. Some signs of this along with the code might be hard starts, excessive smoke (be careful as this can also be a boost leak), laggy, fuel knocks, and not reaching certain PSI at WOT. These can all be signs of a potentially weak or bad cp3/cp4 pump. You can also use the pressure test port as well to check what the fuel psi is.&nbsp;<br /><br /></p> <p><strong>#5 </strong>- Weak/ worn injectors: Injectors over time become worn down due to all the heat cycles and likely timing messes with the crazy tuning people run (over returns the fuel). Again this is more on the less likely side of things, but it can happen and cause that issue/code. Balance rates will not tell you the whole story so again would have to be tested by a shop. Always start with the easiest/ least expensive things to replace first then move on down the line if it doesn't solve your problem.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Solution:</span></h2> <p>As we mentioned above any of these could be the issue, or it could be several combined, but typically these are what cause the <strong>P0087</strong> code.</p> <p>We can say about 90% of the time its an issue with the filter, head, or a collapsed line, which can typically be fixed permanently by the lift pump (lots of benefits to running a lift pump even with a good fuel system), removal of the filter and head and fixing the bad fuel lines. Now some people do use this as a bandaid where the issue is still out there, so while it can fix the issue, you may want to make sure it's not any of the other issues as well.&nbsp;</p> <p>Other areas you might see a big fuel difference in actual vs. desired rail pressure is in the tuning with fuel/timing added etc. This is a different circumstance and goes back to even the shimming kit to use, but this would be something your tuner needs to dial back to accommodate your mod setup.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>We hope this helps some with explaining the issue and ways to fix it potentially. Thank you!<br /><br /></p> <p><strong>Need further assistance on service or parts please reach out to us!</strong></p> <p>325-340-0322 or 888-646-5328</p> <p><span style="color: #3598db;">sales@injectedmotorsports.com</span></p> <p><span style="color: #e03e2d;">www.facebook.com/injectedmotorsports</span></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:28https://injectedmotorsports.com/rancho-leveling-kit-2020-toyota-4runner-trdRancho Leveling Kit: 2020 Toyota 4Runner TRD<p><strong>Rancho 2.5" leveling kit on a 2020 Toyota 4Runner TRD 4x4</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Common Tools:</span></p> <ul> <li>socket sizes: 10mm,12mm, 15mm, 19mm, 21mm, 3/4", 13/16", flat head screwdriver, pliers, pry bar, jacks</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ol> <li>Take off the wheels, and skid plate to start<br /><br /></li> <li>Take off the tie rod end castle nut and bust it off the knuckle, do the same for the upper control arm nut, the brake line, and abs sensor line brackets off, then take off the 4 sway bar end links bolts on either side, and it will come forward, out of the way.<br /><br /></li> <li>Next, take out the 19mm nut and bolt out of the lower shock mount, then the 3 nuts on top of the shock mount, slide the old coil/shock out&nbsp;<br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1923.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="1067" /><br /><br /><br /></li> <li>Next, grab the new Rancho Quick Loader Coilover and set the dial to where you want both sides, place the shock in the mount, you may need a large bar to press down on the arm to get the lower shock mount in. Tighten up the 3 upper new hardware nuts and then the factory lower bolt and nut.&nbsp;<br /><br /></li> <li>Then start putting back the upper control arm joint, tie rod ends, and the sway bar end link (this is the hardest part).<br /><br /></li> <li>For the sway bar end link, the driver side has the stabilizer shock bar system, this has to be jacked up and pushed back toward the vehicle at the same time while lining up the bracket holes to get the bolts in.&nbsp;<br /><br /></li> <li>Once everything is in now tighten up the abs line brackets and torque everything to spec.<br /><br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/thumbnail_IMG_1922.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="1067" /><br /><br /></li> </ol>urn:store:2:blog:post:27https://injectedmotorsports.com/readylift-leveling-kit-install-2022-chevy-1500-high-countryReadyLift Leveling Kit Install 2022 Chevy 1500 High Country<p><strong>Installed ReadyLift 1.5" leveling kit on this new 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 High Country with the Adaptive Ride Control (ARC) feature!</strong></p> <ul> <li>A very straightforward install takes between 2.5-3 hours to complete. The video below shows the rundown of the installation with socket sizes, tips, and what it looks like afterward.&nbsp;</li> </ul> <p><em>*Remember to have an Alignment done and reset sensors if necessary but if done properly, there shouldn't be any.&nbsp;</em></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/0000440_590 (1) (3) (1).jpeg" alt="" width="650" height="389" /></p> <p><strong>This leveling kit will allow for up to a 33x11.50-20 tire on a 20x9 0 offset wheel:&nbsp;</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2>NOTES: (1) Not compatible with Chevy Trail Boss and GMC AT4 / AT4X suspension. &nbsp;(2) Not compatible with 2019 Limited OLD Body Style. &nbsp;(3) Some wheels may require a 6mm or greater wheel spacer to clear the brake caliper.</h2> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline; background-color: #ffffff;"><strong>2019-2022 GMC Denali and Silverado High Country 1500 leveling kit designed specifically to work with Adaptive Ride Control.</strong></span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ar0Mk06nih0" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe>;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/readylift-15-leveling-kit-19-22-gm-1500-denali-high-country</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:26https://injectedmotorsports.com/ranch-hand-grille-guard-install-19-22-gmc-sierra-1500-at4Ranch Hand Grille Guard install 19-22 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4<p>Today we installed a Ranch Hand Grille Guard on the new 2022 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 pick-up. Note that this truck did not have a front camera or front sensors, that is a different kit number. Also, the Diesel model is the same minus a few more steps that require cutting and different bolts.&nbsp;</p> <p>This install should take you 1.5 hours or so with common hand tools. We do recommend having 2 people install it as it makes it easier and safer.</p> <p><strong>Socket sizes used on this install: 7mm, 15mm, 18mm, 19mm&nbsp;</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Steps #1:</strong></p> <p>Loosen the frame bolt on both the driver &amp; passenger side to make clearance for removing the tow hook bolts. Next, take off the pocket shroud by removing the two 7mm bolts and the retainer clip. Picture below</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1824.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="600" /></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1823.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="600" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step #2</strong></p> <p>After they are removed, take the bolts out of the tow hooks and remove the hooks as well (they will be reinstalled). (Remember the hooks are marked with XX on the bottom to show the direction to be pointed down)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step #3</strong></p> <p>Grab your new RH brackets, and you'll see the 4 holes on one end that go onto the outside of the frame pocket. Grab the supplied bolt/plate assembly and mount it from the inside of the pocket outward, so the bolts face outwards where the new brackets will slide over (using the new hardware install, but don't tighten fully). Make sure the brackets are angled outward *shown below .*(should be around 37-38" from inside to inside of the brackets).. Now reinstall your factory tow hooks and using the factory hardware run the bolt through the pocket and new brackets) (Diesel models use supplied 1/2 x 4" bolts). Now you can tighten the bracket nuts/bolts first then the tow hooks hardware (19mm/15mm). Also, you can now tighten the frame bolt back on each side (18mm)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1825.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="600" /></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1822.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="600" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step #4</strong></p> <p>Now either has a second person or a lifting device to pick up the guard to place on the brackets. (Remember the vehicle brackets will go on the inside of the grill guard brackets)</p> <ul> <li>Use the supplied carriage bolts (run bolts out to in), nuts, and washers, and tighten down the bumper on both sides. Make sure it's level and then torque them down.</li> </ul> <p><strong>* Make sure all hardware is torqued down and nothing is missing or loose.</strong> <br /><strong>** We kept the packing insulation around the guard so it wouldn't scratch or dent anything.&nbsp;</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1827.jpeg" alt="" width="552" height="414" /><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1826.jpeg" alt="" width="476" height="414" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Thank you for viewing this as we try to make these more detailed than the original instructions given. Below is a link to this Grille Guard!</strong></p> <p><strong>Check out and subscribe to our Youtube Channel as well! </strong>---- &nbsp;<span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvWcwWg7gyMU1dCsKQQu6Ug</strong></span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/ranch-hand-gmc-19-22-1500-legend-grille-guard</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:25https://injectedmotorsports.com/bds-4-coilover-2020-gm-1500-at4-install-notesBDS 4" Coilover 2020+ GM 1500 AT4 Install Notes<h2><strong>The truck is a 2020 GMC AT4 1500&nbsp;</strong></h2> <ul> <li>Lift: BDS 4" Coilover lift kit (makes it a 6" on the AT4/ Trail Boss trucks)</li> <li>Wheels/ Tires: 20x9 Black Rhino Warlords -12 offset; Toyo RT 35x11.50x20</li> <li>Trimming: Minor trimming on the fender liners</li> <li>Install Time: 12 Hours</li> <li>Lift Kit Link: <a href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/bds-4-coilover-system-19-21-..">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/bds-4-coilover-system-19-21-..</a>.</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><strong>Notes:</strong></h2> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>On the cut/weld it will be done on the driver-side rear cross member pocket. You're creating space for the new cross member. The weld-in plate is just to make the bracket more sturdy (extra support), it does not hold any weight. (used a simple MIG welder for this):</strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/medium_IMG_0745_0.jpeg" alt="" width="120" height="120" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>On the passenger side rear pocket you'll only cut the front side, do not cut the back side of the pocket:</strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/medium_IMG_0746.jpeg" alt="" width="120" height="120" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>The reservoir shock mounts will go on the back side of the control arm, be sure not to route them between the brake lines:</strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0748_0.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="800" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Before and after the lift on the rack:</strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0728.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" /></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0752.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="800" /></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:24https://injectedmotorsports.com/amp-power-step-install-2020-gmc-sierra-1500Amp Power Step Install 2020 GMC Sierra 1500<p><strong>A quick rundown on these Amp Research Power Steps on a GMC sierra 1500 AT4 plug n play system.</strong></p> <ul> <li>First we found it's easier to assemble the motors and cover on the bench along with the butt connectors for the LED lights and stripped the wires back on the looms.</li> <li>While you can mount the motor and idler linkage on the truck first if you want to do it all at the same time measure the linkage on the front 5" from the end of the board inward and install the linage loosely onto the roller pins. Then get your motor linkage at the rear and measure either 16" or 33" inward depending on your truck. This truck the holes were at the 33" mark from the end of the cab.&nbsp;</li> <li>This lets you hold the steps and linkages up to put in the 2 bolts per linkage and tighten them down&nbsp;</li> <li>Like in the video posted on here as well we use the terminal for the connection, and we slide the controller down the side of the battery and tie it to the battery hold-down bar, to run the wires across the engine bay we take out the pop rivets, place a zip tie then put the rivets back end and secure the wire.</li> <li>Routing the wires make sure not to get close to the engine or exhaust, run along outside of the frame above the cab mounts, and DO NOT zip tie the looms to the parking brake line (Wire fish works best)</li> <li>When running the 2 purple wires into the cab be sure to tape them together and run under the carpet and tie it into the OB2 connector plug supplied.</li> <li>Wire in your LED lights, clean off the spot to it sticks good, zip tie everything up nice and neat. Put the Fuse back in and get it a try</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ee2ntbSrFTE" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p><strong>* Make sure to keep your steps and motors clean after mud&nbsp;</strong></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:23https://injectedmotorsports.com/icon-25v-ir-shocks-11-19-gm-25003500-custom-designed-4-5-lift-kits-2ICON 2.5v IR Shocks 11-19 GM 2500/3500 Custom Designed 4-5" Lift Kits<p>Injected Motorsports and Icon Vehicle Dynamics got together and created the 2.5v IR shock for the 11-19 GM 2500/3500 trucks with a 4-5" lift kit. Below we'll explain how these should be installed and some of the measurements involved as well. We even had the mounts made to fit the BDS style 4.5" lift kits that change the shock mount types.&nbsp;</p> <p>ICON is a superior suspension company that specializes in off-road applications and provides top-notch products. The 2.5v is an internal reservoir configured specifically for each application in both length and damping tune. Made with 6061 aircraft grade aluminum CNC machined components, precision machined 1026 DOM steel shock body, and premium grade 5WT shock oil for consistent suspension damping along a wide temperature range. These shocks are also 100% revalveable and rebuildable!</p> <p>The 7/8” diameter induction hardened, chrome plated shock shaft provides a beefier rod to withstand on and off-road conditions over its competition. Shocks are under 250 psi!</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Tools Needed:</strong></p> <ul> <li>JACK, JACK STANDS</li> <li>TORQUE WRENCH</li> <li>9/16” SOCKET / WRENCH 3/4” SOCKET / WRENCH 13/16” SOCKET / WRENCH 7/8” SOCKET</li> <li>WRENCH 19MM SOCKET / WRENCH 21MM SOCKET / WRENCH</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>We installed these front shocks on a 2017 GM Duramax 2500HD with a Cognito 4" lift. Truck is sitting close to 4.5" here in the pictures on the front. Below we show how to place the bushings and also how to install less or extra travel.</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>How to install the hardware on shock (bar in middle shows where the truck frame bracket is)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1365.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Factory Mount Indention (Topside)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/factory mount.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="800" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>ICON Shock Mount Bracket (Hole in the middle needs to be closer to the outside)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/mount view1.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="800" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>ICON Mount installed (tighten the 2 bolts first before putting the shock in) **Torque to 110 ft-lbs</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/top mount.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="800" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Placing the Icon shock into place after tightening the mounting bracket hardware (torque to 50 ft-lbs) DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/mount and shock.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="802" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>**Torque to factory spec For Bottom Shock Mount Bolt</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Depending on your vehicle's ride height application it's easier to place the shock rod through the top and place a nut on there to hold, then either raise or lower the control arm (lower) to slide the bottom bolt through.</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="color: #e03e2d;">If you need MORE travel and the lift height is closer to 5" then place the mounting bracket on the bottom of the frame mount. Less travel or closer to 4" then place it on the top.</span></strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Finished Product of the Shock Mounted on Top Side</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/icon 1111.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="741" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>**The BDS Style changes the lower Mounts to an Eyelet style and the top is the same stem as the bar pin mount system. Links below for both styles!</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/icon-25v-series-shock-4-5-front-lift-height-custom-11-19-gm-2500-3500-hd</p> <p>https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/icon-25v-series-shock-4-5-front-lift-height-custom-bds-lifts-11-19-gm-2500-3500-hd</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:21https://injectedmotorsports.com/airdog-lift-pump-filter-cross-referenceAirdog Lift Pump Filter Cross Reference<p><strong>This is the water separator that is a direct fit for all AirDog I, AirDog II, and AirDog II-4G models.</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><img src="/images/uploaded/F198644892_1.png" alt="" width="345" height="595" /></strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Cross Reference Numbers:</strong></span></p> <ul> <li>NAPA: 3616</li> <li>WIX: 33616</li> <li>Baldwin: BF-1275</li> <li>Fleetguard: FS19768</li> <li>Donaldson: P550550</li> <li>LuberFiner: LFF9594</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>This is the 2-micron fuel filter that is a direct fit for all AirDog I, AirDog II, and AirDog II-4G models.</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Cross Reference Numbers: (Note, this is for fitment and not micron rating):</strong></span></p> <ul> <li>NAPA: 3420</li> <li>WIX: 33420</li> <li>Baldwin: BF-7531</li> <li>Fleetguard: 5613</li> <li>Donaldson: P551315</li> <li>LuberFiner: LFF3545</li> </ul>urn:store:2:blog:post:20https://injectedmotorsports.com/how-do-i-fix-death-wobble-by-one-up-off-roadHow do I fix Death Wobble? By One Up Off-Road<h3><strong>We wanted to help share the information here from OUO, as it provides a great list of what to look for if you get the death wobble in the fords and similar with the Dodges.&nbsp;</strong></h3> <p><em><strong>If your truck is having a death wobble event slow down as safely and as fast as you possibly can until it stops wobbling.</strong></em><br /><em><strong>Do not keep driving it with it shaking really hard, something could <span style="text-decoration: underline;">catastrophically fail and kill you</span>.</strong></em></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Any death wobble event could cause damage to other parts that were not damaged before the death wobble event.<br />That happens every time you have an event, new damage can happen.<br />One or any combination of these reasons can bring on the Death Wobble.<br />1/64" of slop in any component can get death wobble started.&nbsp;<br /><br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/ford-death-wobble-defect.png" alt="" width="571" height="420" /><br /><br /></p> <p>1-Track Rod bracket to frame bolts is not torqued.<br />2-Track Rod bracket joint bolt is not torqued.<br />3-Track Rod bushings or joints are worn.<br />4-Steering box frame bolts are not torqued.<br />5-Steering box does not have its lash adjusted correctly.<br />6-Steering rag joint is worn.<br />7-Steering column U-Joints are worn.<br />8-Steering column connection is not torqued.<br />9-Steering box damaged internally or was rebuilt with non-optimal parts.<br />10-Steering box has a worn or damaged power steering control valve.<br />11-Steering Box it too loose internally from the factory.<br />12-Steering box is out of adjustment.<br />13-Pitman arm nut is not torqued.<br />14-Pitman arm is cracked.<br />15-Pitman arm splines are compromised from being loose.<br />16-Steering stabilizer is worn/defective. &nbsp;<br />17-Steering stabilizer is not torqued.<br />18-Aftermarket dual steering stabilizer bracket is low quality.<br />19-Drag link joints are worn.<br />20-Drag link coupler is not torqued.<br />21-Tie rod joint is worn.<br />22-Tie rod center link is not torqued.<br />23-Ball joints are worn.<br />24-Wheel bearing is worn.<br />25-Radius arm Frame Mounts are not torqued / loose Factory rivets.<br />26-Radius arm bolts are not torqued.<br />27-Radius arm bushings or joints are worn.<br />28-Castor is less than 4 degrees.<br />29-Tow is too far towed out.<br />30-Tires are cupped, worn, or just randomly stopped working on your truck.<br />31-Brand new tires have a side wall/belt construction that is not compatible with a solid axle truck.</p> <p>Even if your parts are “new” that does not mean they are good.<br />A new track rod will not tighten the nut on your pitman arm. &nbsp;<br />Your bump steer will not get better until you fix the “close enough” geometry.<br />Let’s say your track rod bracket is loose, you don’t check it because you would never think that it could be a Friday truck and the assembly line torque wrench was not functioning correctly. You have a death wobble event from the loose track rod bracket bolts that destroy your track rod Joint. You can see that the joint is bad, so you change it, but do not check the bracket’s bolt torque, then.. it hammers out again… that damn joint. But really it was another loose component causing the joint damage.<br />“Just put in cams” will NOT fix your problem.<br />There is no “Just do” that will fix your truck.&nbsp;<br />If anyone is selling you an end all - be all fix to death wobble, buyer beware, they are not to be trusted.<br />Remember, just because someone has a social media account does not mean they are qualified to be giving anyone guidance.<br />If it is bad information, it is of no consequence to the internet experts if it costs you time and money.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>If you are buying a new truck.</strong><br />Be aware, drive that truck for 15 – 30 minutes at all speeds before you take possession of the truck. Be extremely mindful of the steering. Do not let the salesman talk to you when you are driving it. Focus and be critical of every bump.<br />If that truck has any bump steer or chatter, do not buy that truck. Do not take possession of it even if you special ordered it. That new truck is a defective unit.&nbsp;</p> <p>We have 20 years of experience specializing in Superdutys suspensions.<br />We have many patents, inventions, original designs, and event wins.</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:19https://injectedmotorsports.com/gorhino-front-rear-bumper-install-notes-review-17-19-l5p-chevy-duramaxGoRhino Front & Rear Bumper Install Notes/ Review (17-19 L5P Chevy Duramax)<p>Today we're going to cover the installation of the BR10 GoRhino Front &amp; BR20 Rear bumper for the 15-19 Chevy Silverado 2500/3500 HD! The BR10 model features a place for a winch, aftermarket fogs, shackles, and more!&nbsp;</p> <p>A few Notes before we go into detail on this Bumper. First, we'll start with the Front Side BR10. Ship weight is 188 pounds for the front bumper alone and 67 pounds for the winch tray.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>***ALL PRODUCTS WILL BE POSTED BELOW HERE FOR ANYBODY INTERESTED***</strong></span></p> <ol> <li><span style="color: #e03e2d;">- Front Bumper </span>-<span style="color: #3598db;"> <a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/go-rhino-br10-front-bumper-r..">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/go-rhino-br10-front-bumper-r..</a>.</span></li> <li><span style="color: #e03e2d;">- Rigid Rear Flood Pods</span> - <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/flood-flush-mount-black-pair..">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/flood-flush-mount-black-pair..</a>.</span></li> <li><span style="color: #e03e2d;">- Rigid Front Diffused Pods</span> - <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/diffused-flush-mount-pair-d-..">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/diffused-flush-mount-pair-d-..</a>.</span></li> <li><span style="color: #e03e2d;">- Rear Bumper</span> - <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/go-rhino-br20-rear-bumper-re..">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/go-rhino-br20-rear-bumper-re..</a>.</span></li> </ol> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>- Not compatible with models with the Driver Alert Package (We'll discuss how to retrofit the current bumper on this)<br /><br /></strong></span></p> <ul> <li>Required one-piece welded winch tray built from 1/4" thick steel for use with winches up to 16,500 lbs (Sold separately, <strong>part no. 24273TW</strong>)</li> <li>Optional items are thumb screws for faster assembly, fog light mounting plates, &amp; winch<br /><br /></li> </ul> <p>We'll break down the key install notes as GpRhino's installation guide is pretty decent to follow. This vehicle is also having the Rigid LED pods installed both in front and rear bumpers.<br /><br /><br /></p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="color: #e03e2d; text-decoration: underline;">Front Bumper Notes</span></span></h2> <p>#1 - After taking off your factory bumper check to see if any pieces are missing and also a good time to check on other components that are usually difficult to see with the bumper in the way.&nbsp;<br /><br /></p> <p>#2- This step is for trucks with the driver alert package. This bumper doesn't come with the pre-drilled holes for the sensors. The first step is to carefully take the sensors out of the old bumper along with the wiring harness. Mark the sensors to show the inside/outside and the driver/passenger side and what direction they were facing. It's easier to remove the metal bracket to gain access to the sensors.&nbsp;</p> <p><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0560.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="600" /><br /><br /></p> <p>#3- Once you've taken out the sensors, marked them, and reassembled the factory bracket (if you wish to do so), Now is the time to prep the new bumper, winch tray, and sensor holes.&nbsp;<br /><br /></p> <p>#4- Since there are no pre-drilled holes this is the time to drill the new bumper. There are 2 options for mounting locations. The easier way is to drill the 4 holes in the mesh side piece,s and you can choose whether or not to use the plastic retainer clips off the old bumper to hold the outside sensors. (we chose to do that on this truck). The other option is to drill the meta bumper itself, and this will be closer to the factory locations, but drilling 1/8" steel can be a chore and risk ruining the finish if not done properly. To secure the sensors in the holes drilled you can use several methods of your choice such as zip ties, silicon, gorilla glue, or some other type of light adhesive. Our outside holes were tight enough to fit they didn't need anything as the plastic clip held the sensor firmly.&nbsp;<br /><br /></p> <p>#5- After the sensors are drilled and installed then we move on to the wiring of the rigid pods. To wire it into the factory harness for the fog button we spliced it into the harness plug (brown/ purple) wire and then grounded it out to a bolt head on the frame. We used the rigid wiring harness to snap the plugs into the lights. After everything is working properly, we taped up the wires and will zip tie them out of the way on the vehicle.&nbsp;<br /><br /></p> <p>#6- The main issue we ran into is the Winch Tray rubbing against the transmission cooler bracke,t and while some leave it there we did not want it to rub. After measuring on the truck where the brackets hit we cut a notch out of the winch tray to clear the bracket. We also cut the plastic shroud clips off so they would clear on the bottom. Don't forget to measure each side of the winch tray, so it's centered on the truck.&nbsp;</p> <p><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0557.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="600" /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0556_1.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="600" /></p> <p>#7 Now would be the time to install the winch of your choice that's designed to fit the slot. Secure all wiring to the best place inside the winch tray or underneath, and tighten all the bolts after adjusting the bumper. (We used a little bit of gorilla glue to hold the backside of the sensors in place).&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/7EFD1F94-9685-423E-9A7E-839A3D3C07E3.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="555" /><br /><br /></p> <p><strong>-- More in the Video Below<br /><br /><br /><br /></strong></p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="color: #e03e2d; text-decoration: underline;">Rear Bumper Notes<br /><br /></span></span></h2> <p>#1 Disconnect the wiring harness and trailer plug and lower the spare tire down to give you more space.</p> <p>#2- Loosen all the bolts including the 4-bed bolts in order to remove the factory bumper. (Used a jack to raise the bed just enough for it to clear</p> <p>#3- Once off, transfer all the sensors and wiring harness over, matching the placements once again.&nbsp;</p> <p>#4- On the wiring, we tapped into the reverse lights for the rigid pods and used the existing license plate plugs, and hardwired that in. ( We recommend doing the Flood style over the spots as it gives a wider projection and better for reverse lighting).&nbsp;</p> <p>#5- The 3M tape that comes on the plate brackets that hold the sensors didn't stick well so we put on some bigger thicker pieces and it held just fine.&nbsp;</p> <p>#6- For the spare tire insert, you choose which hole matches up the best then plug the other up. You can leave it how it sits, or you can drill it out a little more if you want to fit your factory key lock back into place.&nbsp;</p> <p>#7- After everything is wired together, position the bumper to match side to side and tighten everything up.</p> <p><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/E5543BCE-375E-46D8-926C-F22C3CB7A61B.jpeg" alt="" width="800" height="555" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="color: #e03e2d; text-decoration: underline;">Overall Opinion<br /><br /></span></span></h2> <ul> <li>Very well-made bumpers and they are solid no doubt with the winch plate being nearly 70 pounds by itself of 1/4" thick steel. GoRhino has mentioned doing pre-drilled holes for the sensors in the near future, and that will make the process go much faster for the front. Also, the cutouts for the winch plate took some time, and they need to account for that bracket moving forward. Outside of the other small things pleased with how the bumper came out and again it's sturdy no doubt. Hope this helps!<br /><br /></li> <li>Front Bumper install time w/ lights, no winch, and the mods ~ 4.5 hours<br /><br /></li> <li>Rear Bumper install time w/ lights ~ &nbsp;2.5 - 3 hours depending on 1 or 2 people.&nbsp;</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>INSTALL VIDEO:</strong></p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SgMGCE7hswo" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:18https://injectedmotorsports.com/icon-vehicle-dynamics-faq-shock-service-informationICON Vehicle Dynamics FAQ & Shock Service Information<h2><strong>*ICON offers a lifetime warranty on all components, springs, and weldments.</strong></h2> <ul> <li>ICON's shock warranty is limited to manufacturing defects for 12 months from the date of purchase.</li> <li>The ICON Delta Joint features a 5-year limited warranty.</li> <li>Contact ICON tech support for more details at (951) 689-ICON.</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><strong>*ICON suspension systems will not void OEM factory warranties.</strong></h2> <p>There are cases where specific dealerships may have their own internal policies to avoid working on vehicles with aftermarket components or may choose to reserve the right to not warranty or work on a vehicle with aftermarket suspension. In cases like this ICON recommends contacting another dealership and confirming whether or not they work on or service aftermarket-modified vehicles.</p> <p>When developing suspension components for a new vehicle, ICON takes a different approach than many others. Rather than focusing on one particular part, ICON engineers look at the vehicle as a whole, identify inherent strengths and weaknesses, and set a target for performance. With a focus on maximizing wheel travel and improving ride quality, ICON will develop components that address (and often replace) OE limiting factors. This "holistic engineering" philosophy often results in the development of several parts designed to work together as a system to provide a balanced on and off-road performance upgrade. Because ICON is designing and manufacturing all of the components necessary to improve the performance of a vehicle from front to back, end-users can rest easy knowing they are dealing with ONE manufacturer, ONE standard of quality, and ONE awesome warranty to back it all up.</p> <p>ICON Vehicle Dynamics offers a rebuilding service for our entire line of shocks. The basic rebuild service includes labor, new seals and new shock oil and services start at $75.00 per shock. If other parts such as bearings, shafts, and other components need to be replaced an Icon representative will call you and let you know the additional costs of these items. Please see below for a list of services we offer as well as the recommended service intervals. <strong>If you feel your shock service may fall under warranty, please DO NOT fill out this form and call ICON Customer Service: at (951)-689-4266.</strong></p> <ol> <li>Complete the shock service request form below. <span style="color: #3598db;"><strong><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://news.iconvehicledynamics.com/icon-factory-shock-service/">LINK HERE</a></strong></span></li> <li>You will receive an email with your Service Number.</li> <li>Remove shocks from the vehicle and clean off any dirt or debris. This is an important step and will save you from additional labor costs. If shipping back Coilover shocks you do not need to remove the springs from the shock. <strong>Please retain all mounting hardware, brackets, and bearing spacers.</strong></li> <li>Package the shocks to ensure they will not be damaged or lost in shipping. If packed properly, the shocks should not move in the box.</li> <li><strong>Write the assigned Service Number on the outside of the box. (Boxes without service numbers will not be accepted).</strong></li> <li><strong>Ship the shocks to the following address:<br /></strong>Icon Vehicle Dynamics – Shock Service<br />7929 Lincoln Ave.,<br />Riverside, CA 92504<br /><br /></li> </ol> <ul> <li>We recommend purchasing insurance for the package and requesting a signature required. Feel free to use any carrier that is convenient (UPS, USPS, FedEx)</li> <li>Upon receipt of your shocks, an Icon shock technician will inspect all parts, and you will be notified if any additional parts and/or services are needed.</li> <li>Upon completion of your rebuild, a representative will call you with the exact total of the rebuild as well as shipping charges back to you.</li> <li>Please note, that we are unable to ship to PO Boxes or Military Addresses. If you are outside of the United States, please call for international return shipping options.</li> </ul> <h2><br /><br />ICON Shock Service Intervals</h2> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/1.jpeg" alt="" width="1000" height="659" /></p> <p>Currently, shock servicing is performed on Tuesdays. Please be aware of when we receive your shocks back as it may take up to a week for servicing to be completed. By submitting this form you hereby authorize ICON Vehicle Dynamics, LLC to complete service on your shocks with the necessary materials. You understand that estimates include all parts and labor, however, if upon further inspection additional work or parts are needed, you will be contacted for approval. In the event your shocks require additional components and/or additional labor time due to the condition they were shipped in (i.e., excessive dirt, mud build-up, rust/corrosion), other costs may occur.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2>ICON Shock Services by Type</h2> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/2.png" alt="" width="1000" height="817" /></p> <p>During the rebuild process, the Service Technician inspects the common wear items of the shock. The cost for these common wear items are listed below.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2>Additional Part Costs</h2> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/3.jpeg" alt="" width="1000" height="518" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2>Available Shock Upgrades</h2> <p>These upgrades will vary depending on the vehicle. The costs listed below are the starting costs of each upgrade service and are priced per shock absorber. For more details, please reach out to our Technical Support Staff.<br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/4.jpeg" alt="" width="1000" height="451" /></p> <div id="malwarebytes-root"></div>urn:store:2:blog:post:31https://injectedmotorsports.com/2017-2019-gm-66l-l5p-hood-vent-replacement-22017-2019 GM 6.6L L5P Hood Vent Replacement<h2>2017-2019 GM Duramax Hood Vent Removal and Install</h2> <p><br />Whether yours might be broken or just want to change out the color to match here's a quick and easy tutorial on how to change out the hood scoop vent.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step 1:</strong> Take out the trim rivets on each side on the bottom side of the hood.&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0241.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /> <img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0242.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /><br /><br /><br /></p> <p><strong>Step 2:</strong> Once those are out pull down the shroud, and you will see the 4 nuts/bolts exposed. Use a deep socket 10mm socket and remove the 4 nuts.</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0240.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step 3:</strong> Once all 4 nuts are out, then close the hood and use a trim tool to pop up the 4 grommets holding the vent in place.</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0239.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Step 4:</strong> After removal gets the new vent and make sure all 4 bolts are seated correctly and use the rubber washers off the old unit with the new one. Snap the new vent into place by pushing down and then raise the hood again and install the 4 factory nuts back onto the bolts and tighten (not too tight just snug).&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0238.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /><br /><br /><br /></p> <p><strong>Step 5:</strong> Make sure everything is seated properly and install the 2 shroud rivets back into the hood, and you're done!</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_0244.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>GM Chrome Part # 84183576</strong></p> <p><strong>GM Black Powdercoat Part # &nbsp;84240941</strong></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:16https://injectedmotorsports.com/airdog-vs-fass-the-lift-pump-debateAirdog vs Fass: The Lift Pump Debate<p>We see and get asked this question on a daily basis, and it's the simple "Which lift pump is better Fass or Airdog."&nbsp;</p> <p>I will start off by saying that either one will get the job done and has proven to be efficient over the years and will only continue to improve. I will get into the little details of each and let you decide, but again both are great products with a lifetime warranty on the pumps for the original purchaser.&nbsp;</p> <p>We'll be comparing the new <strong>Airdog II 4G </strong>and the <strong>Fass Signature Titanium Series</strong> pumps as these are the newest pumps for each company!&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><strong>Airdog- <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/products/brand/airdog">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/products/brand/airdog</a></span></strong></h3> <ul> <li>Brushless Gerotor motor; longer motor head (low amperage)</li> <li>Adjustable pressure regulator</li> <li>Quick connect line fittings</li> <li>Bolt-on mounting bracket</li> <li>Self-priming for easier start-ups</li> <li>Demand Flow Fuel Return</li> <li>Typically doesn't require a sump (especially on the 15-16 LML Duramax models)</li> <li>Lifetime warranty (if purchased at MAP price and from an authorized reseller) *amazon/eBay are not considered authorized</li> <li>25 years in business with the original lift pump design and USA MADE</li> </ul> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/airdog_two_diagram.png" alt="" width="800" height="488" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><strong>Fass- <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/products/brand/fass">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/products/brand/fass</a></span></strong></h3> <ul> <li>2-micron filters with the new water separator design to trap the water instead of having a drain</li> <li>2% failure rate on all pumps and has designed the new "FASS Whisper Technology" to make the pumps less noisy. Fass claims they did this without lowering the flow as Airdog and others do</li> <li>Fass provides the heater kits for cold climate vehicles</li> <li>Has radius cutting feature that prevents stagnant fuel pockets from forming at 90-degree bends</li> <li>Bolt-On brackets</li> <li>19 years in business and USA MADE</li> <li>Lifetime warranty (if purchased at MAP price and from an authorized reseller) *amazon/eBay are not considered authorized</li> <li>30,000 Mile Filter life</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/Screen Shot 2020-04-17 at 1.46.24 AM.png" alt="" width="800" height="571" /></p> <h2>&nbsp;</h2> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="color: #3598db; text-decoration: underline;">When comparing the two here's our opinion on key areas:</span></span></h2> <p><strong>Filters </strong></p> <ul> <li><strong>Fass</strong> (Their new filters are a little better in terms of filtration and the new water separator is better than the drain style)&nbsp;</li> </ul> <p><strong>Mounting </strong></p> <ul> <li><strong>Airdog</strong> (Their mounting system and hardware are more flexible and it hides the pumps better and doesn't allow them to hang as low as the fass systems do)</li> </ul> <p><strong>R&amp;D </strong></p> <ul> <li>The slight edge here to <strong>Fass</strong> just because they tend to do a little more testing on their pumps, but Airdog has proven for years to be just as effective</li> </ul> <p><strong>Motor</strong></p> <ul> <li>The slight edge here to <strong>Airdog</strong> as their 4G motors have been out longer and have proven to be a great quiet motor with a very small failure rate</li> </ul> <p><strong>Warranty&nbsp; </strong></p> <ul> <li>Both offer a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser (bought from an authorized dealer and at MAP price)</li> </ul> <p><strong>Hardware/fitting </strong></p> <ul> <li>Both provide the hardware and fittings, and to us, both will get the job done</li> </ul> <p><strong>Price&nbsp; </strong></p> <ul> <li>Both are about the same price with <strong>Fass </strong>being a hair cheaper&nbsp;</li> </ul> <p><strong>Install/instructions </strong></p> <ul> <li>Give it to the airdog here slightly as sometimes the <strong>Fass</strong> guides can be vague and miss important details</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><span style="color: #3598db;"><strong>Overall: </strong></span></h3> <p>The winner will largely depend on the end-user experience, whether that be customer service, tech support, price, features, and so on. Both will get the job done, and both will work with you to provide the best product.&nbsp;</p> <p>Hunter's take, "I prefer the <strong>Airdog </strong>slightly over the Fass on the <strong>Duramax trucks</strong> because of the <strong>better mounting system</strong> and the <strong>motor design</strong>. Filters can be changed out as both have cross-filter reference guides. Hope this helps some as it's just a simple breakdown between the 2 great American Companies!"</p> <p>Hunter Holdridge- Owner&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:15https://injectedmotorsports.com/sdp-lbz-lmm-duramax-air-intake-install-notesSDP Lbz-Lmm Duramax Air Intake Install Notes<h2><span style="color: #3598db;">Screamin Diesel Performance released their new Lbz-Lmm Duramax air intakes, so we got a hold of one and did some fit testing, and had some quick install notes.</span></h2> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>SDP offers top-notch quality and fitment. The Turbo Inlet (horn) is a larger 3.75” ID to a smooth transition &nbsp;4” intake pipe!</strong></p> <ul> <li><strong>Kit can come with just the intake pipe that connects to the factory horn, can also come with just the intake horn, and it will work with factory or other drop-in intakes, and of course, can get it all as 1 kit. The valve cover fittings (crankcase vent plugs) can be added as well.&nbsp;</strong></li> <li><strong>SDP uses the always reliable S&amp;B Filter and can purchase a filter wrap separately.&nbsp;</strong></li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Install Notes:</span></h2> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Removal:</strong></p> <ol> <li>Take your stock box out first and work your way onto the turbo inlet. Loosen the band clamp nut and easily work out the inlet.</li> <li>After the intake is off carefully remove the 4-star head screws from the MAF sensor housing and take out the sensor.</li> <li>Next, install the MAF sensor onto the new intake pipe with the new supplied screws</li> </ol> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>New Kit Install:</strong></p> <ol> <li>Loosen the band clam, slide your intake horn in from the passenger side, and bar carefully not to pinch the Air Intake Temp sensor wire as it will go over the top of your horn. Make sure the clamp it over the turbo lip and the horn lip, and tighten it down enough to hold it in place ( will tighten this up last).<br /><br /></li> <li>Next slide on the rubber-supplied boot over the horn outlet, some minor grease may be needed, but the boot should slide over fairly easily. Slide 1 of your supplied clamps over it and let it hang there.<br /><br /></li> <li>Next, if your truck is equipped with a metal bracket some of it will need to be cut to allow the intake bracket to fit. Take out the 3 13mm bolts (2 on the housing, 1 holding the oil dipstick) and proceed to cut off the end towards the bumper. Some trucks will have this, and other trucks do not. This is more common in the LBZ models than in the LMM. (pictured)<br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/large_IMG_5888_0.jpeg" alt="" width="180" height="180" /><br /><br /></li> <li>Reinstall the cut bracket with the 2 bolts, then take your intake pipe and slide it in between the nut on the housing, then slide the other end into the boot for the horn. Slide over and lightly tighten the 2 clamps over the boot.<br /><br /></li> <li>Tighten the bolt on the bracket, then tighten the 2 clamps over the boots, then go back to your turbo band clamp and tighten it.<br /><br /></li> <li>Slide over your filter and tighten the clamp. (put the filter wrap on before if you choose that option).<br /><br /></li> <li>Plug in your MAF sensor on the intake pipe.<br /><br /></li> <li>Check all connections and bolts.</li> </ol> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline;">** Follow our Youtube Channel for more videos!&nbsp;</span></h2> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NUIHFXw7gpw" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:14https://injectedmotorsports.com/ez-lynk-autoagent-20-setup-appEZ LYNK AUTOAGENT 2.0 SETUP APP<h2>Installation Steps</h2> <p>Living up to the brand name, EZ LYNK has made the installation process simple. We’ve broken down each step and provided some valuable information that will help you understand how your AutoAgent works.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Step One: Download &amp; Install the AutoAgent App</strong></span><br /> <ul> <li>The AutoAgent app is available for most smart devices. It requires iOS 8+ or Android 5+ to operate. You can download the iOs app <span style="color: #3598db;"><strong><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://apps.apple.com/us/app/autoagent/id1110395367">here</a></strong></span> and the Android app <span style="color: #3598db;"><strong><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ezlynk.autoagent&amp;hl=en">here</a></strong></span>.</li> </ul> </li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Step Two: Create an Account</strong></span> <ul> <li>From the AutoAgent app, select "create an account". You will need to verify that your email address is valid upon creation. Dealers should always create an account for the end-user or use the account that the end-user has already created.</li> </ul> </li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Step Three: Place Your Key in the ‘Run’ Position</strong></span> <ul> <li>Turn your key all the way over without starting the vehicle. This will boot your vehicle’s engine computer allowing the AutoAgent to communicate with it. If you have a push-to-start vehicle, you should press the Start button twice.</li> </ul> </li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Step Four: Plug the AutoAgent into your OBD-II Port</strong></span> <ul> <li>With the key in the ‘Run’ position, plug your AutoAgent into your vehicle’s On-Board Diagnostics port. You can verify that it has booted correctly when you see that a blue and green light are illuminating the device.</li> </ul> </li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Step Five: Connect to your AutoAgent from your Smart Device</strong></span> <ul> <li>Navigate to the WiFi settings of your smart device and select the ‘EZLYNK_####’ network. A check mark will appear next to the network name when you have successfully connected. The AutoAgent 2 also allows you to connect via Bluetooth.</li> </ul> </li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Step Six: Open the AutoAgent App</strong></span> <ul> <li>After you’ve successfully connected, you can navigate back to the AutoAgent app. You should now be able to see your vehicle gauges.</li> </ul> </li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Step Seven: Lynk your Vehicle</strong></span> <ul> <li>When you purchase from XXX tuner or an authorized XXX dealer, your vehicle will be AutoLynked. If your smart device has cellular data, you will notice that a message has appeared asking you to lynk the vehicle. Follow these prompts to connect your vehicle with your mechanic/technician. If your smart device does not have cellular data, you will need to connect to an internet-available network and re-open the app to complete the linking process.</li> </ul> </li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ul> <li><strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">Step Eight: Program Your Vehicle</span></strong> <ul> <li>After completing the linking steps, you are ready to flash your vehicle.</li> <li>Navigate to (3 bars) &gt; Vehicle &gt; ECU Profiles. Here you can view the list of tunes or ECU profiles that are available to you.</li> <li>Tap the cloud button to download your desired ECU profile, followed by the ‘Install’ button to flash your vehicle. The app will guide you through the flashing procedure.</li> <li>(When using a smart device without cellular data you will need to switch to an internet-available network to download the ECU profile, then back to the EZ LYNK network to install the ECU profile.)&nbsp;</li> </ul> </li> </ul>urn:store:2:blog:post:13https://injectedmotorsports.com/01-10-hydroboost-brake-booster-fix-upgrade01-10 Hydroboost (Brake Booster) Fix & Upgrade<h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Duramax Hydroboost Fix &amp; Upgrade Mod</strong></span><br />&nbsp;</h3> <p>Anybody with the 01-10 Duramax 2500HD or 3500HD knows the very common issue of the hydro-boost going bad along with the Power Steering Pump. If left long enough it does have the potential to take out your power steering pump as well.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Fix: </strong>Instead of going back with a 01-10 gm model hydroboost (if you do, then go back with ac Delco) go ahead and put a 2011 LML hydroboost back in its place. the 01-04 trucks will need a slight modification to fit it, this entails drilling a bigger hole in the pin. Outside of that, it's a direct bolt-on.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Reason:</strong> The 2011s were upgraded internally, and if you've ever driven an lml you can tell the brakes are much better and don't have that "spongey" feel to them. It's a direct bolt-on and will work on the older system.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Also while you're doing the hydro-boost and you're worried about the power steering pump, then now is the time to do both while you're in there. I would go back with new lines as well (stainless if you wanna go high-end) and flush the system first with ATF fluid. Then go back with either your standard PS fluid, or I like the full synthetic option myself. I repeated this 2 times or so to get good clean fluid. It's also a common issue to have leaky hydroboost lines going to the PS pump so watch for those as well.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>*NEW AC DELCO PART # <strong>1781036</strong></p> <p><a href="https://injectedmotorsports.com/gm-hydroboost-2011-lml-duramax-25003500hd">https://injectedmotorsports.com/gm-hydroboost-2011-lml-duramax-25003500hd</a></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_1498 (1).jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>*Upgraded Power Steering Pump from PSC Steering (LINK) -<a href="https://injectedmotorsports.com/high-performance-power-steering-pump-2001-2010-gm-duramax-with-hydroboost-braking-system-psc-performance-steering-components-3" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://injectedmotorsports.com/high-performance-power-steering-pump-2001-2010-gm-duramax-with-hydroboost-braking-system-psc-performance-steering-components-3</a></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">BAD PS Pump &amp; Hydroboost&nbsp;</span></h3> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_Iao5hZCNhE" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Hope this helps, and I'll post a video of what a bad hydroboost and power steering pump sound like. Thanks for viewing!</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:12https://injectedmotorsports.com/edge-pulsar-vs-banks-derringer-on-the-l5p-duramaxEdge Pulsar vs Banks Derringer On the L5P Duramax<p>Some prefer the new Edge Pulsar units, and others prefer the Banks Derringer's. In this segment, we'll dive into the pros and cons of each, as well as other nonbiased opinions from other shop owners. We'll show data from the Pulsar and the Derringer from their respective companies, and then later on we'll have 3rd party shops show side-by-side comparisons on the dyno.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Now HP isn't the end-all winner, there's much more to like about each, and below we'll go over them in detail and let you decide which is right for you. Also will discuss the warranty debate as well.&nbsp;</p> <p><br /><span style="font-size: 18pt;"><strong>Edge Pulsar Tuner &nbsp;- Price ($799.99 MAP) - <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/edge-pulsar-2017-2019-gm-66l-duramax-l5p">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/edge-pulsar-2017-2019-gm-66l-duramax-l5p</a></span></strong></span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><br /><strong><em>It's a new product that actually piggybacks the ECM under the hood. Some features include:</em></strong></p> <ul> <li>No wires and plugs into the ECM&nbsp;</li> <li>Pulse width driving all the injectors&nbsp;</li> <li>Throttle Enhancer built into the unit</li> <li>Instant power, no flashing, with shift-on-the-fly capability through the steering wheel controls</li> <li>It does have a transmission slip back down- meaning power will decrease if a slip is detected</li> <li>Will provide the ability to recalibrate the speedometer for wheel/tire changes (range 29-50)</li> <li>Can be updated through the internet</li> <li>5 power levels with a tow tune (LVL 2) within those&nbsp;</li> <li>A big plus is the ease of installation as it can be done typically in 10-15 minutes</li> <li>Transmission relearn feature for new power levels</li> <li>Display injector balance rates</li> <li>Manual regen available through Insight</li> <li>Updates for Pulsar is managed directly through the Insight instead of requiring a laptop</li> </ul> <p>**Added features coming to couple with the Edge CTS3 monitors so that's a big plus as the CTS3s can force regens and show additional data/parameters</p> <h3>&nbsp;</h3> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Tips/tricks:</span></h3> <p>-Be very careful with the push tabs on the ECM harness as they can break easily. The space around the ECM is tight so be careful when pulling the ECM out.&nbsp;</p> <p>-Recommend taking it off before going to the dealer so they can perform any necessary updates to the truck.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Things we would change:</span></h3> <p>-Have a wireless wifi ability to update the system as cords are always a hassle. <strong>(UPDATE)</strong>- Wireless updating is being worked on and could be out this year in 2020.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Edge Warranty: </span></h3> <p>-The Warranty is Limited to one (1) year from the date of sale and limited solely to the parts contained within the product’s kit. WARRANTY IS VALID ONLY FOR NEW PRODUCTS PURCHASED THROUGH AUTHORIZED DEALERS (proof of purchase required for all warranty claims).</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>EDGE MANUAL - <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://edgeproducts.com/support-pdfs/Pulsar-L5P-Manual.pdf">https://edgeproducts.com/support-pdfs/Pulsar-L5P-Manual.pdf</a></span></strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Here are some numbers from Edge on the Pulsar unit as it has a ma HP of 90 and a max torque increase of 156 lb-ft</strong></span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/77278268_563720857758178_7024264028713123840_n.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="444" /> <img src="/images/uploaded/78275608_550660552164829_2596070223035498496_n_0.jpeg" alt="" width="376" height="480" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="font-size: 18pt;"><strong>Banks Derringer w/idash - Price ($739.00 MAP)- <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/derringer-tuner-gen2-activesafety-and-idash-18-super-gauge-2017-19-chevy-gmc-2500-66l-l5p">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/derringer-tuner-gen2-activesafety-and-idash-18-super-gauge-2017-19-chevy-gmc-2500-66l-l5p</a></span></strong></span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><br /><strong>The Banks Derringer has proven to be once again a reliable and safe power tuner from Banks. It differs from the Pulsar unit above. Some Features:</strong></p> <ul> <li>Offers 6 power levels with a max HP of 61 and a max torque increase of 112 lb-ft</li> <li>Data logging up to 20 parameters w/idash and even more with the added data monster</li> <li>Shift on the fly works with cruise control engaged</li> <li>ActiveSafety protects your engine/powertrain</li> <li>Can run multiple idash modules to show more real-time parameters</li> <li>Regen status displayed over power level when Regen is active and can Force Regens!</li> <li>Corrects MAP and FRP parameters to accurate readings</li> <li>Update Derringer software and calibration through iDash 1.8 using a microSD card</li> <li>Warranty friendly: No reflash required and no traces left in ECU</li> <li>The Derringer connects in line with your truck's engine sensors. But, unlike others, it also connects to the vehicle's OBDII diagnostic bus connector</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Things we would change:</span></h3> <p>-Less wiring and faster install</p> <p>-SD cards can get lost or broken, so a better more efficient way to update if needed. (UPDATE)- Wireless updates are being worked on and suspected to be out sometime in 2020</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Banks Warranty:</span></h3> <p>- Gale Banks Engineering (BANKS) warrants to the original purchaser that any parts purchased from an authorized dealer shall be free from defects in material and workmanship from the date of purchase for the corresponding time (1 year for the idash and Derringer). - see full warranty disclaimers here -<span style="color: #3598db;"> <strong><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://official.bankspower.com/customer-support/banks-product-limited-warranties/?_ga=2.240840709.72355100.1575094362-1562933029.1558929709">https://official.bankspower.com/customer-support/banks-product-limited-warranties/?_ga=2.240840709.72355100.1575094362-1562933029.1558929709</a></strong></span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>INSTALL VIDEO:&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/44p8ic_on6s" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>BANKS MANUAL- <span style="color: #3598db;"><a style="color: #3598db;" href="https://s3.amazonaws.com/assets.bankspower.com/sdc/manual/97661_L5P_Derringer_v4_2_web.pdf">https://s3.amazonaws.com/assets.bankspower.com/sdc/manual/97661_L5P_Derringer_v4_2_web.pdf</a></span></strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h4><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are some numbers and dyno results from testing done by Banks:</span></h4> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><img src="/images/uploaded/Dyno_Chart_HP_Banks-v-Competition_web.jpeg" alt="" width="550" height="308" /> <img src="/images/uploaded/Dyno_Chart_TQ_Banks-v-Competition_web.jpeg" alt="" width="550" height="308" /></span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LDo_-qLOIYM" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Dealership Warranty Question:</span></h3> <p>With either of these units technically they can void a Manufacturer's Warranty as it's always up to their discretion. Now neither leave the footprint like the EZ Lynk or EFI live platforms, but they can view previous Max Torque gains. Banks states the ECM doesn’t know the Derringer is adding fuel, so its fuel rate and reported torque value remain stock. With a reflash tuner, the ECM knows about the extra fuel which raises the max torque and raises red flags at the dealership. The Derringer is safe and leaves no footprint.&nbsp;</p> <p>But like mentioned above take these devices off if you're concerned about the dealer saying something and most of the time it's a non-issue. Every dealership operates differently, and some are more lenient than others. The dealership would have to prove the device caused any failures to void any warranty work. They can't really void it because of power numbers but more on the CAL ID side of things if they can prove what caused whatever the issue was. So to sum it up it's a hard question to answer straight where they could void, but it's unlikely. (if anybody or shop has experience with it and wants to add something here message us and we'll be glad to put it in here). Thanks&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #3598db;">Comparing Both the Pulsar and Derringer:</span></h2> <h3><br />Installation and Look</h3> <ul> <li>Have to give the edge here to the <strong>Pulsar </strong>unit as it's a faster install that connects right to the ECM and has no wires. Plus the added features of the CTS2 monitor will be nice to have. &nbsp;(CTS2 monitors can force regens).</li> </ul> <h3>Throttle Response</h3> <ul> <li>Again the advantage is <strong>Pulsar</strong> here as it has the throttle enhancer already inside (But Banks will be releasing their new version called the Pedal Monster in the next few months so this can change).</li> </ul> <h3>Updating</h3> <ul> <li>We'd call this a push right now as both need cables to update, and if you lose the SD card from Banks, that's not good, but Banks will be coming out with wireless updates this year.</li> </ul> <h3>Parameters/ Datalog</h3> <ul> <li><strong>Banks</strong> get the edge here as it does provide more parameters to datalog right now and has the neat gauge look. Banks do one of the best jobs in the industry for testing numbers.</li> </ul> <h3>Power</h3> <ul> <li>Initial test numbers show the Pulsar with the Advantage, but again we'll wait to see more head-to-head results soon. Banks have done more testing. * <strong>We've put down 88rwhp on a Banks Derringer with the pedal monster and HSP air intake.</strong></li> </ul> <h3>Product Testing/ Tech Support</h3> <ul> <li>Right now we give the advantage to <strong>Banks </strong>as they do have more numbers and testing to back up their claims and we feel give better tech support right now. Still the same after 8 months Banks still give better support and customer service.</li> </ul> <h3>Towing</h3> <ul> <li>The slight edge here to Banks as it towed on level 3 with better shift points and lower temps.</li> </ul> <h3>Controls</h3> <ul> <li><strong>Banks</strong> with the edge here again as you can adjust the power levels on the fly and while in cruise control whereas with the Pulsar you have to take the cruise off in order to change the levels.&nbsp;</li> </ul> <h3>Speed Limiter</h3> <ul> <li>Neither can get rid of the limiter as you need custom tuning in order to do that.</li> </ul> <h3>Emissions:</h3> <ul> <li>Both <strong>Banks</strong> and<strong> Edge</strong> (D-802-9) Have EO #s.&nbsp;</li> </ul> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>*** We are working on getting side-by-side dyno testing with the 2. Results will be posted here as soon as we obtain them. Thanks!</p> <p>&nbsp;</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:11https://injectedmotorsports.com/01-10-duramax-transmission-cooler-lines-repair01-10 Duramax Transmission Cooler Lines Repair<p>Next up in our Blog series is replacing leaky transmission cooler lines on our LBZ Duramax. This is a very common issue and happens because of another cheap design by GM. While you can go back with OEM lines, we highly recommend either having a local hose shop build your hoses and fittings or buying a kit like the one we'll be installing. Both Deviant Race Parts and Fleece make repair line kits. They do slightly differ as the 01-05 will be different than the 06-10 trucks.&nbsp;</p> <h4><br />Deviant has a good PDF install on these:<strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">&nbsp;<a style="color: #2dc26b;" href="Deviant%20PDF">https://www.injectedmotorsports.com/product/deviant-transmission-cooler-repair-lines-2006-2010-gm-duramax</a></span></strong></h4> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h4><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Notes:</span> <strong>(We have added notes and pictures that will aid the installation.)</strong></h4> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Tools needed:</strong></span></p> <p>- flat head screwdriver</p> <p>- nut driver</p> <p>- Crowfoot (line wrench) 1 1/4" for factory nuts and 1" for the Deviant nuts</p> <p>- Hose cutter and dike plyers</p> <p>- Ratchet and Extention</p> <p>- Catch pan</p> <p>- Crescent wrench's</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>1. When doing this install you'll typically lose around half a quart of fluid, after installing make sure there are no leaks and take it for a drive to get the trans up to temp, and then check your level and add ATF if needed.</strong></p> <p><strong>2. I zip-tied the lines going back to the transmission together and up out of the way so nothing sharp would puncture a hole in it.&nbsp;</strong></p> <p><strong>3. Install times might vary but on average 2 hours would be pretty standard for this and shown in the video below can be done in your driveway.&nbsp;</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">Here's a picture of one of the leaky lines.</span></strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5557.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /> <img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5558.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5562.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Factory Lines with grill and shroud removed. The right-hand side line goes to the top of the transmission, and the left side goes to the top fitting on the LH side of the radiator.&nbsp;</strong></span></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5559.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">Factory Lines disconnected. BE SURE to use a backup wrench on the cooler housing as the aluminum can crack easily</span></strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5560.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="533" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">Top view of the new trans lines, the top fitting is a 90-degree, and the bottom is a 45-degree fitting.&nbsp;</span></strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/trans cooler top view.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">Top view of the crowfoot socket with an extension to loosen or tighten the hard-to-reach nut.</span></strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5566.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">Picture of the line wrench or (crow's foot) socket which is handy for this install.&nbsp;</span></strong></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5567.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Deviant Race Parts 1/2" Kit</strong></span></p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5561.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lDh7wNILyYA" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p>&nbsp;</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:10https://injectedmotorsports.com/bushwacker-fender-flare-installBushwacker Fender Flare Install<p>Our next project was to install new Bushwacker rivet-style fender flares on our 2007 LBZ Duramax.</p> <p>We decided to run the Bushwacker <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>40918-02</strong></span> Pocket Style Smooth Finish Fender Flares in black for some added protection from the wider wheels we're running.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Out of the box, everything was included in the list below.&nbsp;</span></p> <p>- Torx bit T-45&nbsp;</p> <p>- Stainless Rivet screws/lock nuts/washers</p> <p>- Plastic pop style rivets (for mounting the flares)</p> <p>- Rubber Duro Edge Trim&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Now Recommended tools were:</span></p> <p>- Screwdriver</p> <p>- Bit Driver&nbsp;</p> <p>- Utility knife</p> <p>- Drill (using a 5/16th" bit) <strong>**** But we have found this waqs too large for the plastic 1/4" pop rivets, so we used a 15/64" bit and it worked a lot better</strong></p> <p>- 1/2" wrench</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Pre-install steps:&nbsp;</span></p> <p>Step 2: Remove factory fender trim and mud flaps (when installed).</p> <p>Step 3: Edge Trim Installation (See Figure #1) (A) Peel two to three inches of red vinyl backing away from the edge trim tape. Applying the adhesive side of the edge trim to the inner side of the flare, affix the edge trim to the top edge of the flare (the portion that comes in contact with the side of the vehicle).&nbsp;</p> <p>(B) Press edge trim into place along the top edge of the flare in one-foot increments, pulling red vinyl backing free as you continue to work your way around the top edge of the flare.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/Screen Shot 2019-10-16 at 4.30.27 PM.png" alt="" width="600" height="645" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Step 4: Front Flare Installation (A) Insert stainless steel screw and washer into the front of flare, secure with nyloc nut, using a T45 Torx bit. (See illustration #2)</p> <p>(B) Hold the front flare in place on the fender, secure with supplied Tuf-Lock fasteners through the holes drilled in the flare, into the holes in the fender body wheel well. (See arrows in illustration #3).</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/Screen Shot 2019-10-16 at 4.30.36 PM_0.png" alt="" width="600" height="335" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">This part is pertaining to the installation onto the truck itself.&nbsp;</span></strong></p> <p><span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>*If your truck had previous flares factory or non there will be holes already there under the wheel wells. We found while some of them matched up perfectly others did not, and we had to drill holes accordingly. PLEASE note vehicles will all differ, and the hole can be off from vehicle to vehicle.&nbsp;</strong></span></p> <p><span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>* We do recommend getting some extra pop rivet screw style before starting as we broke several heads off due to them being plastic.</strong></span></p> <p>We'll go fender by fender to explain what we had to do.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">-Front fender passenger side:</span></p> <p>- After lining it up correctly (you'll see the indentions on the flare to fit the truck's indentions we started at the front and popped it in as that hole lined up. For the first top hole we had to drill this one as the holes wouldn't line up, then after we did that the rest lined up. I do recommend having 2 people do that, so you make sure the fitment is tight against the body of the truck. There was a little bit of a gap at the back bottom flare part, but it was tight in place, so we left it alone.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Rear Fender Passenger Side:</span></p> <p>- This flare was easy, and every hole matched up with no issues. (just broke a few of the plastic screw heads off as they are very brittle)&nbsp;</p> <p>- We got the front bottom rivet in, then went to the back bottom rivet, then holding up and pressing against the truck we popped the top 2 rivets into place creating a good tight fitment.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Reaf Fender Driver Side:</span></p> <p>- This one we had to drill 2 holes in, the existing holes just didn't line up correctly.</p> <p>- Following the same method we found it easier to start the back 2 rivets and then work our way to the front. We drilled the 1st hole in the top front position and then the middle back position. After we drilled and popped those in the front 2 went in with ease.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Front Fender Driver Side:</span></p> <p>- This was the hardest of them all. <strong>*** Please Note this side gave us fits because the previous truck owner had done a norcal fender mod so to speak and beat back the metal fender panel to create room for a larger tire. When doing this, it causes the holes to be too far away from the flare, and the holes then will not line up.&nbsp;</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5471.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>- We bent that metal back a little bit to bring the hole closer to the flare and then the back 2 holes lined up.&nbsp;</p> <p>- We drilled 2 holes into the one as well and both of them were in the top 2 positions. Remember to use a 15/64" bit as that's a better size hole to fit the 1/4" pop retainers.&nbsp;</p> <p>- After drilling the hole, they then lined up, and then the front 2 existing holes matched up. Again with 2 people, it's easier to pull up and push the flare in for a tight fit on the truck.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>*This job took a little longer than expected since we ran into some issues with the correct drill bit and had to go get some more retainers. From start to finish it was a 3-hour job, but with no issues and 2 people, I would put it at an hour install time.&nbsp;</p> <p>We will post a follow-up video and review it after we've put some miles on them. Thanks!&nbsp;</p> <p>#injectedmotorsports #bushwacker #duramax</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5506.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3z00hSIXeEA" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p>*LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY AGAINST ANY MANUFACTURING DEFECTS</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:9https://injectedmotorsports.com/boost-auto-tow-mirror-reviewBoost Auto Tow Mirror Review<p>Today we are going to do a review on some tow mirrors from Boost Auto. These are the running &amp; signal 1.0 with the high beam led reverse lights. (The installation for dome or switchbacks requires a little more wiretapping). We installed these on our 2007 LBZ Duramax. Will be the same for the 2003-2007 classics. Below we went over a few tips and install notes:</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Tools Needed:</span></strong></p> <p>-7mm &amp; 10mm sockets</p> <p>-15 Torx screw</p> <p>-Trim tools</p> <p>-Pliers/ wire strippers&nbsp;</p> <p>-Electrical Tape/ Zip Ties</p> <p>-Screwdriver&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Notes:&nbsp;</span></strong></p> <p>*Grey wire - Ground</p> <p>White wire - Reverse spot</p> <p>Orange wire - Running lights</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Install:&nbsp;</span></strong></p> <p>1. Start by taking the door panels off, both sides are the same. If you need a video tutorial, you can find it here.&nbsp;</p> <p>2. After the panel is off you will be able to see the mirror wires that connect to your door controls. After unplugging them, unscrew the 3-10mm nuts holding the mirror on. (have someone hold it on the outside).</p> <p>3. Next grab your new tow mirrors and run the wires through the hole and tighten down the 3 nuts. (remember to leave some slack in the orange wire). Plug in your extensions from boost auto (color match them).&nbsp;</p> <p>4. &nbsp;Using a flat head screwdriver from the top push down on the rubber door boot and they will pop out. Squeeze them together closely and run a straight coat hanger and run your wire leads through the boot and into the cab.&nbsp;</p> <p>5. On the passenger side you can either run your wires inside the cab under the dash or run them straight out to the hood and then over to the fuse box. (Here we choose to tie the passenger side into the driver's side and run the wires under the dash).&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/large_IMG_5453.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="314" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>6. For the grey wire you use the bolt under the dash near the E-brake, splice together the grey wire from the passenger to the driver side then put them into the supplied connector and ground them.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5449.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="236" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>7. Using the driver-side leads, run the white and orange wire through the firewall boot (driver side) using a fishing tool and pull them through, leaving enough slack.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5447.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="236" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>8. Now connect the passenger side white and orange wires to the driver side. We cut the wires on the driver's side and soldered them into the passenger side. After we finished splicing, we taped all the wires and routed them under the dash out of the way.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5450.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="236" /> &nbsp;<img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5451.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="236" /></p> <p>&nbsp; &nbsp;</p> <p>9. After taping up most of the wires we then found good places to route and zip tie them up under the dash. There's a group of wires behind the brake controller pictured and we zip-tied these wires to it.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5446.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="236" /></strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>10. Moving to under the hood, we used the 2 wiretaps from boost auto. Strip the wire and insert it into the wire tap connector.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5452.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="236" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>11. The orange wire (running lights) will use the trailer park fuse, take out the existing fuse and insert it with the wire tap connector. The white wire (reverse lights) will use the trailer backup fuse, following the same step as the orange wire. We recommend taping the wires under the hood or using a wire sheath for protection.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/large_IMG_5454.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="314" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>12. Test your lights before reinstalling door panels and finish taping everything up.</p> <p>Reverse high LED beam</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/IMG_5500 (1)_1.jpeg" alt="" width="314" height="419" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Some Install Tips:</span></strong></p> <p>- On the door panels be very careful with the light in the corner as they tend to break, pop it out with your hand gently.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>11/2/19</strong>- Update: Driver side mirror has a vibration in the large glass, will continue to see if it gets worse.&nbsp;<br />&nbsp;</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:7https://injectedmotorsports.com/how-to-measuring-for-the-correct-drop-hitch-sizeHow To: Measuring For The Correct Drop Hitch Size<p>Guide on how to find the correct drop hitch for your towing application.</p> <p>Yes, there are quite a few blogs on this, but we'll create another and sort of piggyback off of GenY Hitch's since they are one of the towing industry leaders.&nbsp;</p> <p>Ideally, you want the trailer to sit as level as possible for towing, and on average you want it to sit between 15" and -17" off the ground.&nbsp;</p> <p>First, you need to measure (flat ground) from the ground to the middle of the receiver hitch. Next, you'll take the number you get say it's 22" from the ground to the center of your hitch. Subtract that number from 16", and that's the amount of drop you'll need.&nbsp;</p> <p>Below is a picture from GenY Hitch showing an example of the size drop you'll need.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>*We carry a full line of GenY Hitch, Curt, B&amp;W, and more!&nbsp;</p> <p>***Make sure before ordering to see if your truck is a 2" or 2,5" shank.&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/hitch size 2.jpeg" alt="" width="621" height="735" /></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:8https://injectedmotorsports.com/duramax-lml-cp4-failure-solutionsDuramax LML CP4 Failure & Solutions<h3>We all know the 2011-2016 LML Duramax features the CP4 injection pump which was supposed to be an "upgrade" over the CP3 units on the 01-10 Duramax trucks. This is certainly the opposite as it doesn't flow as well as the CP3 and the design can cause a catastrophic fuel system failure. When it does fail, it will send metal particulates throughout the entire fuel system and destroy injectors, rails, lines, etc.</h3> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2>Why?</h2> <p><br />The CP4 fails because it makes higher pressure without the same volume as the CP3 unit before it and this causes it to be less lubricated. Bad/dirty fuel also doesn't help the problem as it puts even more stress on the pump.&nbsp;</p> <p>Usually, you'll have a good idea of your CP4 "grenading" as it will shut down (have a no start) and could throw codes such as P0087, P0088, P0191, or P128E. Some catch the problem soon enough to where the metal didn't enter the entire fuel system, but it's best not to chance it.&nbsp;</p> <p>The easiest way to tell is to pull the fuel pressure regulator and inspect it. If there are excessive metal shavings, torn screens, or cracks, then it's a good bet the pump has failed.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2>Factory Fix For Failure:</h2> <p><br />GM recommends changing out the fuel injectors, fuel lines, rails, pump, return lines, filters, and in some cases the fuel tank. After that, you need to flush and clean all lines, tank, filter, and sender unit.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2>Things That Are Beneficial But Won't Prevent Failure Completely:</h2> <p><strong>-A Fass or Airdog Lift pump:&nbsp;</strong></p> <p>Lift pumps will clean the fuel and take the air out before sending it to the injectors and pump. This along with a constant psi flow takes stress off the pump and provides clean fuel. The size of the pump doesn't matter so the 165gph pump would offer the same as the 95gph in terms of clean fuel to the pump.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/large_TS-F18-125_medium.png" alt="" width="180" height="180" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>-Exergy Fuel Saver's&nbsp;</strong></p> <p>Exergy released their "fuel system saver" pressure regulators a few years back to upgrade the factory fuel regulator.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/large_55726478_564787547263766_7371769785387843584_n_medium.jpeg" alt="" width="180" height="180" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>The Exergy System Saver is a drop-in replacement of the factory Inlet Metering Valve. The System Saver gets its name from the job it’s meant for, saving the system. In a CP4 Failure with a Factory Metering Valve, the 80-micron Single-Layer Screen lets metal shavings and debris past, wreaking havoc on your Injectors. This leaves you with a costly repair bill.</p> <p>In a CP4 Failure with an Exergy System Saver, the 25-micron Double-Layer Screen stops metal shavings and debris before they can get past. The 25-micron screen will clog much quicker as well as stop the metal, which closes the valve and shuts the truck down before any further damage can occur. This leaves you with just having to replace the injection pump. A much more economical stance for a minor upfront cost.</p> <p>There have been a few instances of a System Saver being installed and consumers having an issue with not being able to meet desired rail pressure. This is not a fault of the System Saver, but a major indicator that the CP4 Injection Pump is worn out and near the end of its life. If this is the case, it’s time to think of a CP3 Conversion in the very near future.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <h2>Our friends at Under Dog Diesel with a nice <span style="color: #3598db;">install</span> write-up!&nbsp;</h2> <h3>&nbsp;</h3> <h3>How To Prevent CP4 Failure:</h3> <h3><br /><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><strong>- CP3 Conversion Kit</strong></span></h3> <p>There's one way to prevent the failure 100% with two kit options, and that's doing a CP3 swap. The CP3 Conversion kit &amp; injection pump will not only add to your reliability, but you will also have more flow potential.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Kit Option #1:</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Now custom tuning is required so this may not an option for some. This method is pretty straightforward as you replace the CP4 pump with the CP3 and install the conversion kit.&nbsp;</p> <p>In terms of kits, the SDP kit is one of the best on the market and offers parts to allow you to delete the very leak-prone flare-nut connection that feeds the CP3.&nbsp;</p> <p>Here's a link to the kit and we can add either the Exergy or S&amp;S CP3 pump.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/large_LML_CP3_conversion_kit__26479.1487285514.1280.1280_medium.jpeg" alt="" width="180" height="180" /></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Option #2: </strong></p> <p>S&amp;S Diesel has several kits and one that does not require tuning, so it's 50-state legal. This is popular for customers in the state of California and is emissions compliant.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>In conclusion, there are several ways to help the fuel system out or fix it completely. The failure rate will vary depending on the source, but the national failure rate average is between 4-7% of all LML trucks on the road.&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Hunter Holdridge- Injected Motorsports</strong></p> <p><strong>Contributions: Hunter Rabourn- Underdog Diesel&nbsp;</strong></p>urn:store:2:blog:post:6https://injectedmotorsports.com/autometers-new-dual-functioning-pressure-gauges-sema-releaseAutometer's New Dual Functioning Pressure Gauges! ( SEMA Release)<p>We met up with Kris from Autometer at the 2018 SEMA show where he introduced the new Digital Elite Series gauges that are dual functioning.&nbsp;</p> <p>Below is the video with Kris showing off the new style gauges and how Autometer continues to be one of the best gauges on the market.&nbsp;</p> <p>#injectedmotorsports #autometer #sema2018&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mzvRCjrq15g" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p>&nbsp;</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:5https://injectedmotorsports.com/2017-2018-ford-powerstroke-sotf-switch-install2017-2018 Ford Powerstroke SOTF Switch Install<p>2017-2018 Ford Powerstroke SOTF switch install. SOTF cable must be installed before loading SOTF-ready tunes! The switch location changed on the 2017 Powerstroke so Injected Motorsports made a new how-to PDF showing where the next plug is located.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>17-18 Powerstroke Shift On The Fly Installation Instructions</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>SOTF cable must be installed before loading SOTF-ready tunes!</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <ol> <li>Locate the wire harness and grommet on the driver’s side firewall directly behind the parking brake pedal.<br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/SoTF switch 2.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /><br /><br /></li> <li>Make an incision in the grommet large enough to fit the SOTF cable through. (Fishing tool helps pull the wire through the firewall).<br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/SoTF switch 3.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /><br /><br /></li> <li>Locate the other side of the grommet in the engine compartment (next to the brake booster) and cut the tip or a slit in the rubber.<br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/SoTF switch 4.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /><br /><br /></li> <li>Route the shift on the fly cable through the grommet from inside the cab to the engine compartment. <br />Note: Taping up the pin terminals together will make it easier to pull the wire through the firewall and won’t damage the pins.<br /><br /></li> <li>Connect the shift on the fly cable terminal to the connector with the exposed copper wire facing up while the connector housing is positioned as depicted in the picture below. It does not matter which terminal goes in which hole. Be sure the terminals fully seat in the terminal housing and click into place.<br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/SoTF switch 5.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /><br /><br /></li> <li>Locate the charge air cooler temperature sensor and disconnect it. (On the 2017 &amp; 2018 models it's located on top of the cooler pipe).<br /><br /><img src="/images/uploaded/SoTF switch 6.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="400" /><br /><br /></li> <li>Reroute the charge air temperature sensor connector to easily connect the SOTF connector and use the heat shrink wrap to protect the wires. Pull any excess slack in the SOTF cable from the engine compartment into the cab.</li> </ol> <p>*Some images were obtained from No Limit Fabrication&nbsp;</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:3https://injectedmotorsports.com/ez-lynk-lml-duramax-switch-installation-guideEZ LYNK LML Duramax Switch Installation Guide<p>On The Fly tuning to the LML’s through the EZ Lynk and soon Efi Live. This very detailed guide is courtesy of PPEI, you can see their full line of products at PPEI Tuning from Injected Motorsports.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Tools Needed for Installation:</p> <p>Flashlight<br />Flathead Screwdriver<br />Side Cutters<br />5ft of wire to fish the switch wires through the firewall<br />Zip Ties<br />Electrical Tape<br />10mm 3/8 Socket<br />13mm 3/8 Deep Socket<br />1/16″ Drill Bit<br />Unibit #1 or 3/8 Drill Bit<br />1/8″ Drill Bit<br />&nbsp;</p> <p>Installing the Switch</p> <p>1. Pull the hood release and open the hood of the truck. Disconnect both negative cables from both batteries.</p> <p>2. Locate the ECM (Driver side between the power steering reservoir and the battery). Please allow the truck to cool down before proceeding to the next step.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>3. Remove the plastic protection cover by applying pressure to the tabs and sliding it out.</p> <p>4. Looking down on the ECM from the top side on the driver side of the engine remove the ECM Plug closest to the firewall (J3 Gray Plug). You don’t have to, but I’ve found it easiest to remove all three of the harness plugs from the ECM to be able to remove the Gray plug closest to the firewall.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>5. To disconnect the plugs from the ECM will not require any special tools. Slide the red lock tab up and apply pressure to the middle of the plug (you might hear a click indicating that it has been released). Pulling up on the release lever.</p> <p>6. Now that all 3 plugs are disconnected from the ECM pull the connector plugs closer to allow easy access for the following steps. (I’ve found it easier to push the gray and black ECM connector plugs under the power steering lines and pull them up by the hot side intercooler pipe)</p> <p>7. Set the plugs to the side while using your 5ft of metal wire for fishing through the firewall. (We use the hood latch release cable hole to fish the wire through to get inside the cab. (Pushing the hood latch release cable grommet in using your fingers will allow for enough room to run your wire through the firewall into the driver’s floorboard. A flashlight will be handy. Also, we removed the fender support bracket for easier access)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Installation</p> <p>8. Now that the wire is in the driver’s floorboard attach the yellow and black wires from the switch to the wire that you used to fish through the firewall. ( I prefer using electrical tape to attach the yellow and black wires)</p> <p>9. With the yellow and black wires attached to the wire that was run through the firewall, pull the wire back into the engine bay. ( Be very careful when pulling these wires through the firewall – if they feel like they are hung up go back to the driver's floor board and make sure they aren’t tangled with any of the other components)</p> <p>10. With the wires pulled through the firewall leaving the switch inside the cab, undo the electrical tape to the yellow and black wires and remove any residue from the pins. Examine the pins to make sure they are not damaged.</p> <p>11. Take the black wire loom and slide it over the yellow and black wires. (Slide the wire loom all the way into the cab. Using the electrical tape, tape the wire loom to the yellow and black wires. Leave about 8-10 inches of wire exposed)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>12. Place the wire loom and wires to the side.</p> <p>13. Locate the gray ECM plug and remove the zip tie holding the top cover. Remove the cap by lifting the 2 ears on either side and lifting. (Place the black wire cover cap in a safe place out of the way)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>14. With the gray ECM connector in your hand use a pick/knife/flathead screwdriver to pry the gray cover off the bottom of the ECM connector. (Be very gentle as they can break very easily. Place the gray cover cap in a safe place out of the way)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>15. With the gray cap removed locate pin holes #11 &amp; #35. 2011 model trucks will have a yellow wire running to pin #11. 2012 – 2016 model trucks have plastic filler pins in holes #11 and #35.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>16. 2011 only – to remove the yellow pin from #11 use a small tool of some sort (paper clip) to put pressure on the release on the bottom side of the plug. (We used an angled pick to release pin #11)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Installation</p> <p>17. To remove the black plastic filler pins from pin locations #11 and #35 use a 1/16 drill bit. Placing the flat end of the drill bit on the bottom side of the hole. Apply pressure to the drill bit and push the plastic filler pin out the top. (Be very careful pushing the plastic pins out they will need more pressure applied to them than your fingers can apply)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>18. Now that both 11 &amp; 35 are open slots on the ECM plug, route your yellow and black wire to the plug (take into consideration that the plug is higher than where it normally would be when installing the wires into the plug, you may want to route your wire under or around to avoid any issues with plugging it in.</p> <p>19. Take the Yellow wire and put it in the #11 PIN hole. (To make sure that it is in all the way you can verify by looking at the backside to make sure it’s flush with all the other pins. The PIN shouldn’t be able to be pulled out the top side.) Repeat this for the Black wire that goes into PIN #35.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>20. With both the Yellow and Black wires installed, put the gray bottom cover back on the plug. (make sure that it doesn’t push the wires back out the top side when putting the gray cover back on)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>21. Using a zip tie fasten the wires to the plug where you use the snips to cut the original factory zip tie.</p> <p>22. Place the black wire cover cap back onto the plug.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>LML DSP Switch Installation</p> <p>23. Carefully plug the gray J3 ECM plug back into the ECM.</p> <p>24. The LML Switch is now installed. You may mount the switch anywhere in the cab that you please.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>We hope this makes the installation go a lot easier thanks to the Installation guide from PPEI!</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:4https://injectedmotorsports.com/efi-live-dsp5-duramax-switch-install-test-w-volt-meterEFI LIVE DSP5 DURAMAX SWITCH INSTALL TEST W/ VOLT METER<p><strong>Ever wonder how to test your Duramax dsp5 switch? You can do so with a simple volt meter. It's a very simple process that can be done in your driveway.&nbsp;</strong></p> <p><strong>Notice how when you turn the turn power up then volt meter goes down which means the switch is installed correctly.&nbsp;</strong></p> <p><strong>*This was on a 2007 LBZ Duramax running Ridgerunner Diesel Tuning.&nbsp;</strong></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QqflD1qr-mI" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p>&nbsp;</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:2https://injectedmotorsports.com/why-the-blue-spring-kit-on-the-60l-powerstroke-is-importantWhy the Blue Spring Kit On the 6.0L Powerstroke is Important!<p>For such a cheap price and easy installation, this little product is worth every penny in my experience. It increases your fuel back where it should be from the factory and holds up better with tuned engines. Most of the time you will see a 10psi increase with this blue spring kit. This keeps air out of the injectors and prolongs their life of them as well. A big benefit of the spring kit is to keep fuel pressure above 45psi at WOT. *Note that the max spec for fuel pressure is around 70-72psi. &nbsp;The spring will hold a more consistent pressure and will not drop off over time like the factory spring. There's really no downside to this kit, and I believe it's a must on any Ford 6.0L. No, this upgrade does not hurt the pump.&nbsp;</p> <p>I've also included a youtube video for the install tutorial. Thanks for stopping by for this quick part opinion.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IeRN6OWHJ7E" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p>&nbsp;</p>urn:store:2:blog:post:1https://injectedmotorsports.com/fix-your-duramax-front-end-with-the-kryptonite-suspension-upgrade-lmlFix Your Duramax Front End With The Kryptonite Suspension Upgrade (LML)<p>Have a loose feeling front end? How about premature wear on parts? In this blog post, we'll discuss some fixes for that and show you a recent front end done on a 2015 2500HD LML Duramax.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Now yes the 01-19 GM truck suspension is very similar with just a few small differences so while this is done on an LML it's the same concept for the older trucks as well.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>This truck had all the typical signs you see from a 3/4 ton truck with 100,000+ miles on it. Loose steering feel, bump/clunk noises, rattles, and just a rough ride. This truck's keys were barely cranked, so this was almost a stock-height truck.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>The parts used were all Kryptonite brand, which is heavy duty and carries a lifetime warranty as well. We won't use Moog or other cheap parts as they just won't hold up like these will.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>*After doing the Upper Control Arms, Idler Arm, Idler Support, Pitman Arm, Tie Rods, Sway bar end link bushings, and lower ball joints the truck literally is a night and day difference when driving. The steering is nice and tight, no more bump steer, the rattles over bumps went away, and the comfort came back. Below we'll go into some detail on the parts and tools etc.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>*Note: We have recently done Powerstop Rotors and Pads on this truck</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;Below are some pictures of the installation along with some notes on parts:&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>- After removing the calipers, tie rods, and knuckles then loosen the idler arm off the center link. To gain access to the pitman's arm, the easiest route to go is to take out the 3 bolts holding the Gearbox in place. (Remember to lock the steering wheel in place). This gives just enough room to get a puller in there and get the pitman arm off the box spline.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>- Now you can take the center link and tie rods out as 1 assembly to put on the bench. Take off the old tie rods by unscrewing the inner tie rod end and either measure or eyeball the new tie rods to match the old length. (install the new rods on the center link).&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;- Next install the new Kryptonite Idler reservoir onto the truck with the supplied bolts, (it's a tight fit under the fan shroud some minor shaving may be necessary). Next, mount the idler arm onto the idler support and tighten it.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>- Install the pitman arm onto the gearbox spline, tighten to spec, move the box back into place and bolt it back into place. (The old pitman arm was completely shot had bad up/ down play and was extremely easy to move the rod)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>- Then install the center link with the new tie rods screwed in, running both the pitman/ idler arms onto the center link. (tighten down)</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;- Next move onto the lower ball joints, make sure you have a ball joint press, a small sledgehammer, and a large punch. You press the old out, wire brush the surface and inside to get rid of burrs, and press in the new ones.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>- After that's done, we assembled the upper control arms, installing the bushings, grease zerks, and the bolt-in ball joints onto the arms.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>** Note if you're running stock height or with a lift kit then bolt the joints in on the top. If you're leveled with the keys cranked then bolt the joints to the bottom of the arm.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>* This truck is slightly leveled, so we mounted it from the bottom. &nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;- After installing them on the truck with the factory bolts don't tighten them down to spec as they will be adjusted via alignment soon after. Once you have, it bolted in then reinstall the steering knuckle and hold it in place by the upper/lower ball joint castle nut.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>- Next put back the rotor, dust cap, brake calipers, etc., and install the tie rods onto the knuckles, tighten down all bolts and nuts to spec. Next grease all fittings on the front end.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>- Last make sure to get an alignment asap since everything will be off. This is a rough outline of the installation, but if you have any questions, please reach out to us, and we can go into more detail.&nbsp;</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Thank you for reading and hope this helps! Below are some links to the products used in this installation!</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>(Yes we can have them powder coated for an extra cost).&nbsp;</p>