Have a loose feeling front end? How about premature wear on parts? In this blog post we'll discuss some fixes for that and show you a recent front end done on a 2015 2500HD LML Duramax.
Now yes the 01-19 GM truck suspension is very similar with just a few small differences so while this is done on a LML its the same concept for the older trucks as well.
This truck had all the typical signs you see from a 3/4 ton truck with 100,000+ miles on it. Loose steering feel, bump/clunk noises, rattles, and just a rough ride. This truck's keys were barely cranked so this was almost a stock height truck.
The parts used were all Kryptonite brand, which are heavy duty and carry a lifetime warranty as well. We won't use Moog or other cheap parts as they just won't hold up like these will.
*After doing the Upper Control Arms, Idler Arm, Idler Support, Pitman Arm, Tie Rods, Sway bar end link bushings, and lower ball joints the truck literally is a night and day difference when driving. The steering is nice and tight, no more bump steer, the rattles over bumps went away and the comfort came back. Below we'll go into some detail on the parts and tools etc.
*Note: We have recently done Powerstop Rotors and Pads on this truck
Below is some pictures of the install along with some notes on parts:
- After removing the calipers, tie rods, and knuckles then loosen the idler arm off the centerlink. To gain access to the pitman arm the easiest route to go is take out the 3 bolts holding the Gear box in place. (Remember to lock the steering wheel in place). This gives just enough room to get a puller in there and get the pitman arm off the box spline.
- Now you can take the centerlink and tie rods out as 1 assembly to put on the bench. Take off the old tie rods by unscrewing the inner tie rod end and either measure or eyeball the new tie rods to match the old length. (install the new rods on the centerlink).
- Next install the new Kryptonite Idler reservoir onto the truck with the supplied bolts, (its a tight fit under the fan shroud some minor shaving may be necessary). Next mount the idler arm onto the idler support and tighten.
- Install the pitman arm onto the gearbox spline, tighten to spec, move the box back into place and bolt it back into place. (The old pitman arm was completely shot had bad up/ down play and was extremely easy to move the rod)
- Then install the centerlink with the new tie rods screwed in, running both the pitman/ idler arms onto the centerlink. (tighten down)
- Next move onto the lower balljoints, make sure you have a ball joint press, small sledge hammer and a large punch. You press the old out, wire brush the surface and inside to get rid of burrs and press in the new ones.
- After thats done, we assembled the upper control arms, installing the bushings, grease zerks, and the bolt-in ball joints onto the arms.
** Note if you're running stock height or with a lift kit then bolt the joints in on the top. If you're leveled with the keys cranked then bolt the joints to the bottom of the arm.
* This truck is slightly leveled so we mounted from the bottom.
- After installing them on the truck with the factory bolts don't tighten down to spec as they will be adjusted via alignment soon after. Once you have it bolted in then reinstall the steering knuckle and hold it in place by the upper/lower ball joint castle nut.
- Next put back the rotor, dust cap, brake calipers etc and install the tie rods onto the knuckles, tighten down all bolts and nuts to spec. Next grease all fittings on the front end.
- Last make sure to get an alignment asap since everything will be off. This is a rough outline on the install but if you have any questions please reach out to us and we can go into more detail.
Thank you for reading and hope this helps! Below are some links to the products used in this install!
(Yes we can have them powder coated for an extra cost).