Fix Your Duramax Front End With The Kryptonite Suspension Upgrade (LML)

Have a loose feeling front end? How about premature wear on parts? In this blog post, we'll discuss some fixes for that and show you a recent front end done on a 2015 2500HD LML Duramax. 

Now yes the 01-19 GM truck suspension is very similar with just a few small differences so while this is done on an LML it's the same concept for the older trucks as well. 

This truck had all the typical signs you see from a 3/4 ton truck with 100,000+ miles on it. Loose steering feel, bump/clunk noises, rattles, and just a rough ride. This truck's keys were barely cranked, so this was almost a stock-height truck. 

The parts used were all Kryptonite brand, which is heavy duty and carries a lifetime warranty as well. We won't use Moog or other cheap parts as they just won't hold up like these will. 

*After doing the Upper Control Arms, Idler Arm, Idler Support, Pitman Arm, Tie Rods, Sway bar end link bushings, and lower ball joints the truck literally is a night and day difference when driving. The steering is nice and tight, no more bump steer, the rattles over bumps went away, and the comfort came back. Below we'll go into some detail on the parts and tools etc. 

*Note: We have recently done Powerstop Rotors and Pads on this truck

 Below are some pictures of the installation along with some notes on parts: 

- After removing the calipers, tie rods, and knuckles then loosen the idler arm off the center link. To gain access to the pitman's arm, the easiest route to go is to take out the 3 bolts holding the Gearbox in place. (Remember to lock the steering wheel in place). This gives just enough room to get a puller in there and get the pitman arm off the box spline. 

- Now you can take the center link and tie rods out as 1 assembly to put on the bench. Take off the old tie rods by unscrewing the inner tie rod end and either measure or eyeball the new tie rods to match the old length. (install the new rods on the center link). 

 - Next install the new Kryptonite Idler reservoir onto the truck with the supplied bolts, (it's a tight fit under the fan shroud some minor shaving may be necessary). Next, mount the idler arm onto the idler support and tighten it. 

- Install the pitman arm onto the gearbox spline, tighten to spec, move the box back into place and bolt it back into place. (The old pitman arm was completely shot had bad up/ down play and was extremely easy to move the rod)

- Then install the center link with the new tie rods screwed in, running both the pitman/ idler arms onto the center link. (tighten down)

 - Next move onto the lower ball joints, make sure you have a ball joint press, a small sledgehammer, and a large punch. You press the old out, wire brush the surface and inside to get rid of burrs, and press in the new ones. 

- After that's done, we assembled the upper control arms, installing the bushings, grease zerks, and the bolt-in ball joints onto the arms. 

** Note if you're running stock height or with a lift kit then bolt the joints in on the top. If you're leveled with the keys cranked then bolt the joints to the bottom of the arm. 

* This truck is slightly leveled, so we mounted it from the bottom.  

 - After installing them on the truck with the factory bolts don't tighten them down to spec as they will be adjusted via alignment soon after. Once you have, it bolted in then reinstall the steering knuckle and hold it in place by the upper/lower ball joint castle nut. 

- Next put back the rotor, dust cap, brake calipers, etc., and install the tie rods onto the knuckles, tighten down all bolts and nuts to spec. Next grease all fittings on the front end. 

- Last make sure to get an alignment asap since everything will be off. This is a rough outline of the installation, but if you have any questions, please reach out to us, and we can go into more detail. 

Thank you for reading and hope this helps! Below are some links to the products used in this installation!

(Yes we can have them powder coated for an extra cost).